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Basic information for beginners. Which seeds should you start with, which technique is needed, how to proceed?

Managing Humidity for Healthy Cannabis Growth

When growing cannabis, most people focus on light, nutrients, and temperature. But one thing often gets overlooked: humidity. The right balance of temperature and moisture is key to healthy plants and big harvests. This guide shows why cannabis humidity matters and how to control it — no matter where you grow.

Why Humidity Matters for Cannabis Plants

Cannabis plants breathe through tiny openings on their leaves. These help the plant take in CO₂ and release water vapor. If the air is too dry, the plant loses water too fast. If it’s too moist, mold and fungi can grow. The right humidity helps with photosynthesis and keeps your plants strong.

Effects of Humidity on Growth and Yield

Good humidity and airflow make a big difference. Your plants grow faster, roots get stronger, and buds become more potent. But too much moisture with bad ventilation can slow growth and cause disease. Even cannabis that can handle high humidity needs a stable environment to thrive.

Ideal Humidity Levels for Cannabis

The right humidity changes as your plants grow. Each stage needs different levels of moisture and temperature.

Humidity Needs at Different Growth Stages

Germination: 70–80% humidity, 22–25°C
Vegetative Stage: 50–70% humidity, 22–28°C
Flowering Stage: 40–50% humidity, 20–26°C
Late Flowering: 30–40% humidity to prevent mold

In early stages, more moisture helps roots grow. Later, you’ll need lower humidity to protect your buds. Many growers also adjust cannabis flowering temps to match the humidity for best results.

How to Control Humidity in Cannabis Cultivation

Whether you grow in a tent or greenhouse, you need tools to measure and adjust humidity. That’s the best way to stay in control.

Ventilation and Airflow Strategies

Airflow and ventilation help you keep humidity stable. Use these tools and tips:

Humidifiers: Add moisture in dry rooms or winter
Dehumidifiers: Lower humidity during flowering or in wet climates
Fans: Circulate air and stop damp spots
Exhaust systems: Remove stale, moist air
Hygrometers: Track humidity levels at all times

Check your setup often. Keep your temperature and humidity in the right range. Your plants will reward you.

Common Issues with Humidity in Cannabis Growing

Even skilled growers run into problems. High moisture in closed rooms without airflow can ruin your crop fast.

Preventing Mold, Mildew, and Bud Rot

Too much humidity can cause condensation on walls, lights, and buds. This leads to mildew and bud rot, especially during flowering. Here's how to avoid it:

Lower humidity in late flowering (last 2 weeks)
Give your plants space and airflow
Keep temperatures steady to avoid dew buildup

You can grow cannabis that can handle high humidity in wet regions. But even these plants need good airflow and smart climate control.

Conclusion: Best Practices for Humidity Management

Cannabis humidity is crucial. It affects how your plants grow, how much they yield, and how strong your buds are. Keep your temperature, moisture, and airflow in check. Adjust as your plants go through different stages. Whether indoor or outdoor, stable conditions bring the best results.

FAQ: Humidity and Cannabis Cultivation

What is the ideal humidity for cannabis plants?

It depends on the stage: 70–80% for germination, 50–70% for veg, 40–50% for flowering, and 30–40% at the end.

Why is humidity important in cannabis cultivation?

It affects water uptake, photosynthesis, and prevents mold. Balanced humidity keeps plants healthy.

How can I reduce humidity during cannabis flowering?

Use a dehumidifier, add airflow, and avoid watering at night. Keep temps stable to stop condensation.

Can cannabis grow in high humidity environments?

Yes, some strains do well. But you still need good airflow and proper care to avoid bud rot.

The perfect time for lollipopping: when, how and why to prune

In the world of cannabis cultivation, few techniques generate as much debate as lollipopping, a seemingly simple practice that consists of eliminating the lower growth of the plants to concentrate all their energy on the upper buds. However, behind this apparent simplicity lies an art that requires precision, choosing the perfect timing, and a deep understanding of the physiology of cannabis.

When you grow cannabis, there is a belief, especially among rookie growers, that "more is always better". More branches, more leaves, more foliage... Everything seems to point towards a larger plant and therefore a more abundant harvest. However, experienced growers know that the path to a championship crop is not based on accumulation but on optimisation. This is where lollipopping stops being a simple clipping technique and becomes more of an art form… An intimate and strategic dialogue with the plant to interpret its energy flows and intervene with the precision of a surgeon at the perfect moment to sculpt a crop of superior quality. The lollipopping technique, whose name evokes the shape of a lollipop (i.e., bare stems holding dense and heavy colas), is a pruning method that seeks to eliminate lower unproductive growth to ensure that the plant doesn’t waste its limited energy on buds that will never fully mature. Mastering this technique will not only increase the weight of your crop but will also transform its quality, leading to flowers that are larger, denser, tastier, and more potent.

Physiology and the energy flow of cannabis

To prune with intention and not merely by imitation, it is essential to understand the internal logic of the cannabis plant. Imagine your plant not as a static structure but as a complex biological factory with a limited energy budget, where every decision you make influences how it allocates its valuable resources. The engine of this factory is the leaves, which act like solar panels. Through photosynthesis, they convert light into chemical energy (glucose), which is the fuel that feeds every vital process. This energy, along with the water and nutrients absorbed by the roots, is distributed throughout the plant via the stem, which functions as a backbone and a network of motorways. However, this distribution is not equitable ― it is governed by a fundamental biological principle known as "apical dominance". The main tip of the plant, the apical meristem, produces a high concentration of auxins. These key hormones flow down the stem, promoting vigorous vertical growth as well as actively inhibiting the development of lower side branches. It is nature’s way of ensuring that the plant grows towards the light as quickly as possible. So, here’s where the problem lies for the grower who seeks maximum efficiency. The lower branches, hormonally suppressed by the apical dominance and perpetually in the shade of the upper canopy, receive an insufficient amount of light to carry out an effective photosynthesis. Instead of contributing to the energy budget of the plant, they become "net energy drains": they use more resources (water, nutrients, and energy) than they generate, becoming a biological burden. And these lower flowers, often called "popcorn buds", will never reach a significant size, density, or potency. By removing these lower branches and shoots, we achieve two crucial goals simultaneously. Firstly, we root out the energy drain that they represent. Secondly, we alter the hormonal balance ― the plant stops sending resources to those now non-existent areas, with the plant’s vascular system redirecting them upwards, towards the upper colas that enjoy full light and have the greatest yielding potential. What’s more, by eliminating dense lower growth, a more efficient airflow is created around the plant, significantly reducing the risk of fungi and other pathogens. In essence, we’re hacking into the plant’s logistics system to force a total reversal of its most valuable assets.

The window of opportunity to synchronise pruning with the rhythm of the plant

The effectiveness of lollipopping depends almost entirely on when it is done. An untimely intervention can cause more harm than benefit, stressing the plant at a vulnerable time and reducing the crop you intended to improve. The key is to synchronise your action with the biological rhythm of the plant, acting within a very specific window of opportunity when the plant is resilient enough to recover. For photo-dependent varieties, this window is found in the transition between the vegetative and the flowering phase. Within this period, there are two expert approaches:

- The first, a proactive strategy which consists of performing the main pruning between 5 and 7 days before changing the photoperiod to 12/12. This gives the plant a few crucial days to recover and heal any wounds while it is still in its growth stage. This ensures that, when flowering begins, it can devote 100% of its energy to stretching and to the initial formation of buds free from any distractions.

- The second, more reactive approach is performed during the first phase of flowering, specifically during the "stretching”, which covers approximately the first two to three weeks after the change to 12/12. At this point, the plant defines its final structure, so the grower can check which branches have enough vigour to reach the canopy, and which ones will be relegated to the shade, allowing for a more precise pruning.

Both times are equally valid, but what all experts agree on is the danger zone: performing an intensive pruning after the third week of flowering is a critical error. By then, the plant has already invested energy in these lower flowers, and a late pruning can cause such severe stress that it can stop the fattening of the upper buds or induce a response of hermaphroditism as a survival mechanism.

Practical guide for precise and safe lollipopping

Cutting your precious plants with scissors can be intimidating, but the key lies in careful preparation and methodical execution. Start with the obvious: remove any yellowish or dying leaves and the lower and weaker branches that barely rise from the substrate. To decide how much foliage to remove, experts often combine several methods. A good starting point is to clear all the growth in the lower third of the plant’s total height, as that area is most likely to receive insufficient light. A more refined rule, made popular by grower Kyle Kushman, suggests eliminating any branch that doesn’t reach at least 50% of the total height of the plant, as it will remain shaded and unproductive. Another method involves counting down from the tip of each main branch, leaving only between three to six nodes and eliminating everything that grows below. When making cuts, make them clean and flush with the main stem to avoid leaving stumps that can rot. If it’s your first time, be conservative ― you can always remove a little more later, but you can never undo a cut.

Postoperative care and additional considerations

After pruning, the plant needs a period of calm to recover. Avoid subjecting it to other types of stress, such as transplants or sudden changes in temperature. A crucial adjustment is irrigation: after having removed some leaf mass, the plant will need less water, so you must monitor the moisture of the substrate to avoid waterlogging it. Nutrition also needs to be adjusted, perhaps with a more diluted dose of fertiliser during the first few days. The way in which the plant responds is the best indicator of success. A burst of vigorous growth in the upper buds after a few days is the best sign that the energy has been redirected correctly. This optimisation technique reaches its maximum potential when combined with methods such as SCROG (Screen of Green), where eliminating all the growth under the mesh is essential for the energy to be focused on the upper canopy.

In short, mastering the lollipopping technique represents a qualitative leap, the point at which you go from simply "growing" to actively "sculpting" the final result. It is about learning how to communicate with your plants, reading their needs and intervening to help them reach their maximum genetic potential, thereby becoming collaborators and artists of the nature of cannabis.

Nutrient deficiencies in cannabis: a guide to detecting the symptoms

A balanced nutrition is key to the success of a marijuana grow. When your plants don’t get what they need, either because you don’t provide it to them or because they can’t absorb it, symptoms begin to appear.

You could say that plants alert us in their own language when something is not right. For those with an expert eye, knowing how to interpret these signals is essential. If you manage to detect them in time, you’ll be able to correct the deficiency before the problem drastically affects your crop. In this guide, we show you how to recognise the symptoms of the main nutritional deficiencies of marijuana (macronutrients and secondary nutrients), as well as to understand their causes and how to apply effective solutions.

Why do nutritional deficiencies and blockages occur?

There are several reasons that can lead to nutrient deficiencies. These are the most common:

Macronutrient deficiency in marijuana: symptoms

These are the symptoms that your plant will exhibit when it is suffering from a lack of nutrients:

Nitrogen deficiency

Symptoms: Nitrogen (N) (mobile nutrient) is essential for the growth of cannabis, as it facilitates the production of chlorophyll and intervenes in the process of photosynthesis. When there’s a nitrogen deficiency, growth slows down and the leaves of the lower part of the plant begin to turn yellow.

The older leaves at the bottom of the plant begin to turn yellow.

Phosphorus deficiency

Symptoms: Phosphorus (P) (mobile nutrient) is essential for vegetative growth, root mass development, proliferation of new shoots, and flowering.

When there’s a deficiency of phosphorus, the leaves remain small and wilt, showing curved edges and a bluish or reddish colour. The growth of the plant slows down and, in more advanced stages, brown spots appear on the leaves near the central stem.

Potassium deficiency

Potassium (K) (mobile nutrient) is a particularly important macronutrient for root development, chlorophyll production, and bud formation.

Symptoms: The plant slows its growth; some leaves curl downwards; and burnt edges appear and later dry out, acquiring a brown colour. At more advanced stages, brown spots also appear on the leaves.

Secondary nutrient deficiency in cannabis

These nutrients are called “secondary” because the plant only needs them in moderate amounts (i.e., lower than those of macronutrients, but higher than those of micronutrients).

Lack of calcium

Calcium (Ca) (immobile nutrient) strengthens the cellular structure of the plant, contributing to the development of its tissues and roots.

Symptoms: When there’s a calcium deficiency, the plant shows a decrease in vigour in its overall development, and the leaves become deformed, exhibiting irregular edges, burnt and twisted tips, etc. The new leaves grow with deformities and with little colour, which causes their early wilting.

Magnesium deficiency

Magnesium (Mg) (mobile nutrient) intervenes in different enzymatic processes of the plant, as well as in the production of chlorophyll and the photosynthesis process.

Symptoms: When a cannabis plant is suffering from a magnesium deficiency, its symptoms can often be confused with those of a nitrogen deficiency, as the older leaves at the bottom of the plant begin to turn yellow during the first stage. However, there are other symptoms that will help you to tell the difference between the two:

Chlorosis in the leaves, with the nerves becoming more visible while the green tissue lightens and turns yellow.
Brown or reddish spots appear on older leaves.
The stems of the plant may display a reddish colour.
If the deficiency isn’t resolved, chlorosis in the leaves intensifies over time, with the leaves turning completely yellow, curling up on themselves, and eventually dying.
Although magnesium is not essential for the development of the flowering, a lack of it can cause the buds to be less dense and even become discoloured.

Sulphur deficiency

Although the cannabis diet doesn’t require great amounts of Sulphur (S) (immobile nutrient), a deficit of this secondary nutrient can trigger problems in development, since it contributes to the formation of some proteins and enzymes and to the regulation of hormones and vitamins. It also directly affects plant growth and the production of chlorophyll and terpenes.

Symptoms: A sulphur deficiency may result in slower plant growth, with petioles turning purple and pink tones sometimes appearing on the underside of the leaves. Another obvious symptom is that chlorosis appears on the new leaves at the top of the plant, starting at the base of the leaves and then spreading to the tips.

How to remedy nutrient deficiencies in marijuana plants?

As explained above, there are several causes that can lead to your plants experiencing deficiencies in one or more nutrients. Therefore, the first step involves analysing the source of the problem before correcting it:

Measure and adjust the pH and EC of the soil and the nutrient solution.
Test the water you’re using ― if it’s too hard, flush the roots to remove the salts accumulated in the substrate.
Assess whether your substrate is of good quality.
Provide the nutrient that your plants lack so they can recover, either through the use of fertilisers in the irrigation water or as a foliar solution that you can spray directly onto the leaves.

Timely detection and correction of nutritional deficiencies is key to abundant and high-quality harvests. By monitoring pH, EC, and nutrients, as well as by using a good substrate and water treatment, you will avoid blockages and boost the yielding capacity of your grow. Here’s wishing you a great harvest!

How to grow autoflowers Part 2: Vegetative and flowering

This article is focused on what to do (and, above all, what NOT to do) to get the best out of your autoflowering marijuana plants. Growing large autos that produce abundant harvests is possible ― you just have to be up to speed with all the secrets of this type of genetics. Let’s get started!

Automatic cannabis strains in their growth stage

As we explained in our previous article, the first few weeks of life of autoflowering seeds are crucial. While all marijuana varieties are at their most vulnerable stage during their first two weeks of life, automatic strains have the added disadvantage that their growth may become stunted if mistakes are made at this phase. When these mistakes are made, novice growers, or growers who have never tried auto genetics before, may end up with flowering plants the size of a bonsai. No need to panic, though, because these varieties are actually really easy to grow ― it’s just a matter of understanding that they have slightly different needs.

How to detect a blockage during the vegetative period

From the second or third week of life, you might start to suspect that something is wrong if your plant is still pretty small and hasn’t developed much in terms of lateral branching and internodes.

This autoflower is 2 weeks old and has stopped growing because the grower sprouted the seed when it was still too cold. Therefore, growth has slowed down and the plant hasn’t developed properly.

This becomes more evident from the fourth week of life. If the plant develops its first pistils but doesn’t reach a height of more than 5 - 10 centimetres, then there’s clearly been a blockage during its growth.

These autos are also 2 weeks old. You can see the difference in terms of development and overall appearance when compared to the previous photo.

What to do if my autoflowering cannabis plant hasn’t grown enough

If your plants are too small, you may have made one or more of the following mistakes in their first stage of life:

Germinating the seeds when the good weather has not yet arrived.
Not controlling the pH of the irrigation water.
Watering too much and waterlogging the roots.
Transplanting.
Not providing an aerated substrate.
Buying seeds from dubious sources rather than from quality seed banks.

Whatever the reason, if your plant has become stunted and has already entered the flowering stage, you should evaluate the magnitude of the disaster and what the best options are. If the plant is really very small, you may want to start all over again ― the great advantage of these genetics is that they have an extremely short life cycle (8 - 10 weeks from germination to harvest), so you may still be in time to take advantage of the season and do things right from scratch.

Remember that all growers make mistakes, so don’t be discouraged but try to turn this mishap into a learning experience.

The plant that had problems during its first days of life (photo 1) has remained small. Although it still has some room for development during the flowering stage, it is pretty obvious that it won’t produce a good harvest.

If your plant isn’t explosive but still has a decent size, you may want to let it finish its cycle ― autos continue growing during the flowering period and can double or even triple their size in a matter of weeks. This is an extremely personal decision that will depend on your circumstances and on the resources that you have available: space, pots, number of plants allowed by law, etc.

The plants in the photo above have reached week 5. Their structure is well developed and, although we don’t recommend placing so many plants together in the same pot, the grower has been able to make the most of each day of their short autoflowering cycle.

How to cultivate auto seeds: growth and flowering

During their first three weeks of life, autoflowering plants require more frequent watering sessions but with lower quantities so that they don’t drown. From the third week, they’ll have already reached a considerable size and developed a good root system, so they can perfectly absorb a normal amount of water (the same you would use for your photo-dependent genetics) without the danger that the soil becomes waterlogged for too long.

Remember that watering is one of the most important parts of cannabis cultivation:

Watch how "thirsty" your autoflowers are and adjust the quantity as they demand more. Cannabis plants require abundant watering in their adult stage, after which the soil must be allowed to dry. A good indicator that the time has come to water again is that the pot feels light when you pick it up. If the container is too large to lift, dip your finger in the ground about 3 centimetres to check for moisture. Wait until the substrate is dry, without reaching the point where your plants suffer from water stress (when the leaves are drooping, as if they’ve "collapsed" very quickly). Don’t obsess about this too much because by observing and practising you’ll definitely end up finding the right point.
Increase the amount of nutrients progressively to cover the needs of both the vegetative period and the flowering phase.

Things you should NOT do when growing autoflowers

One of the biggest mistakes you can make when growing automatic seeds is to perform pruning, such as FIM or topping, or to apply training techniques like SCROG or LST (Low Stress Training). Something very important to remember is that you don’t have the time required for these techniques to be effective, since the vegetative period of these genetics lasts only four weeks, so they don’t have enough time to grow and recover. There are some anecdotal cases of growers with a very advanced level of experience who have managed to multiply their autoflower harvests by applying training and pruning techniques. However, these unprecedented cases only occur when the grower has a very high level of expertise and perfectly masters indoor growing in advanced hydroponic systems. When performed with absolute precision, formats such as aeroponics can accelerate the growth and metabolic functions of the plants so they can develop the necessary branching for methods like mainlining to take effect. In our decades of experience, we have seen very few cases like these, and always in indoor hydroponic grows. So, unless you belong to this select group of little geniuses, forget about doing all the fancy stuff and just stick to what works. Another common mistake is to perform transplants, just as you would with photo-dependent feminised seeds ― this causes stress and can stop plant growth. All you have to do when your seeds germinate is to place them in their final pot (ideally at least 11 litre if you’re going to grow in soil).

As a final tip, don’t panic if the size of your plants in week 4 doesn’t exceed 20 - 25 cm and pistils are already beginning to appear. Some automatic varieties become taller than others during the vegetative period, but there’s no need to worry: autoflowering strains continue to grow and develop during the flowering, in many cases tripling their size.

How to maximise the pigmentation of cannabis for an explosive colour

The cannabis market is undergoing a fascinating evolution towards varieties that offer a complete sensory experience, in which visual impact plays an important role in the purchase decision of growers, going beyond the traditional parameters of taste, potency, and yielding capacity. Cannabis plants that develop intense purple, violet, pink, or bluish hues not only provide aesthetic satisfaction but are also associated with premium genetics and refined growing processes, elevating the status of the final product.

The influence of American genetics has been particularly noticeable in this chromatic revolution. Varieties such as Zkittlez, Gelato, Purple Haze, or Wedding Cake have set new standards in terms of colour expression, combining sweet flavours with an impressive resin count and THC levels above 25%. This combination of factors has created a market where colour has become an indicator of quality and exclusivity. But far from being merely decorative, this visual phenomenon responds to complex biochemical processes that can be enhanced with specific growing techniques, turning each crop into a true work of natural art.

The key role of anthocyanins

To understand how to maximise the pigmentation in cannabis plants, it is essential to learn the biochemical mechanisms that produce these spectacular colours. And anthocyanins are the group of pigments responsible for these vibrant hues that we see in many plants, including cannabis. These flavonoid compounds function as water-soluble pigments that are stored in plant cells, especially when the production of chlorophyll (the main pigment responsible for photosynthesis) decreases. And they not only provide colour but also perform important protective functions, acting as natural antioxidants that protect the plant from oxidative stress or damage caused by UV radiation. The concentration and distribution of anthocyanins determines not only the colour intensity but also its uniformity throughout the plant. This may include flowers, leaves, and stems, leading to a truly impressive visual spectacle that sets these varieties apart from conventional genetics.

Determining factors for colour enhancement

The synthesis of anthocyanins responds to various environmental and genetic factors, following a specific pattern that is usually intensified during the final stages of flowering or when the plants experience some controlled stress. Therefore, this natural process can be enhanced by manipulating the environmental conditions to help the plants express their maximum chromatic potential.

Temperature drop

Temperature is the most influential factor in the production of anthocyanins. During the flowering phase, it is essential to implement a thermal regime that favours the synthesis of these pigments without compromising the overall health of the plant. Reducing night temperatures to about 10 - 15°C during the last 3 - 4 weeks of flowering is the most effective technique. This thermal decline mimics the natural conditions of autumn, activating the genetic mechanisms responsible for colouration. However, it is crucial to maintain daytime temperatures within the appropriate range (20 - 24°C) to preserve the normal metabolism of the plant.

pH optimisation

The pH of the growing medium also has a direct influence on the chromatic expression of plants. In acidic (low pH) conditions, anthocyanins tend to exhibit red tones, whereas they become bluer in alkaline (high pH) conditions. A neutral pH promotes purple shades. To enhance these colours, it is recommended to maintain the pH slightly below the general optimum range (between 6.0 - 6.3 in the substrate), as this favours the absorption of certain micronutrients which are essential for the synthesis of anthocyanins.

Specialised nutrition

Nutrition during the flowering phase requires specific adjustments that prioritise the availability of phosphorus and potassium whilst gradually reducing the supply of nitrogen. This nutritional change not only promotes the flowering but also induces controlled stress that stimulates pigment production. For instance, one of the most effective techniques is to slightly reduce the availability of phosphorus during the final phase of the flowering, as this stimulates the plant to produce more anthocyanins in response to stress, resulting in more intense purple and red tones.

Strategic manipulation of light

Just as light influences the activity of chlorophyll, it can also stimulate the expression of secondary pigments in cannabis. Small amounts of certain UV wavelengths, particularly UV-A, can help activate protective responses in plants, one of which involves the production of pigments. Moreover, the gradual reduction of light intensity during the last few weeks of flowering can stimulate the production of anthocyanins as a natural protective mechanism. Some growers experiment with periods of extended darkness before harvest (48 - 72 hours) to maximise the final pigmentation.

Other controlled stress techniques

In addition to thermal, light, and nutritional stress, other techniques can also enhance the pigmentation without significantly compromising the plant’s yielding capacity. Mild water stress during the last few weeks, or selective pruning of large leaves to increase light penetration, are complementary strategies that can be equally effective.

Genetic colouration versus ripening-induced colouration

It is essential to distinguish between two main types of pigmentation in cannabis: genetic colouration and ripening-induced colouration. This differentiation is crucial for understanding realistic expectations and appropriate techniques for each type of plant. Genetic colouration is manifested in varieties specifically selected for their natural ability to produce anthocyanin pigments. These plants, such as Purple Haze and Purple Kush, carry genes that are coded for enhanced anthocyanin synthesis under appropriate conditions. In these varieties, colour may appear even under normal environmental conditions, although it may intensify considerably in controlled stress situations. By contrast, ripening-induced colouration is a natural process that occurs in virtually all cannabis strains during the final stages of their life cycle. This phenomenon, which is similar to the colour change in leaves in autumn, results from the degradation of chlorophyll and the compensatory synthesis of other pigments ─ and, although visually appealing, it doesn’t necessarily imply that there’s special genetics involved in the pigmentation.

New chromatic gems in our Linda Seeds catalogue

We have recently added some outstanding varieties to our Linda Seeds catalogue. These genetics are the epitome of cutting-edge cannabis with spectacular colours, each offering unique features that make them ideal options for growers looking to maximise the visual impact of their grows. These include:

Runtz Muffin: With its mix of Zkittlez x Gelato x Orange Punch, this strain produces dense buds with purple hues and a sweet and fruity taste profile.

Animal Mintz: The result of the cross between Fire OG x Animal Cookies x Thin Mint Cookies. This variety develops buds with dark green hues and purple touches, accompanied by a minty aroma.

GMO: A strain derived from the cross of Chemdawg x Girl Scout Cookies that combines intense flavours with a colour range between dark green and deep purple.

Sweet Cherry Pie: With genetics that include Granddaddy Purple x Durban Poison, this strain offers buds with purple hues and a sweet cherry flavour.

Remember that the key to success lies in patience, careful observation, and the gradual implementation of controlled stress techniques that help these plants to express their maximum chromatic potential without compromising their overall health. With the right varieties and techniques, every grower can achieve those explosive colours that transform an ordinary grow into an extraordinary visual experience.

Inbreeding or Hybrids – Which Strategy Yields the Best Cannabis Strains?

In cannabis breeding, two fundamental strategies take center stage: inbred lines (genetically stable strains created through self-pollination) and hybrids (crosses between distinct parental lines). While inbred lines offer consistency and predictability, hybrids unlock the full potential of genetic diversity – often with outstanding results in the first generation. A third, often underestimated component in breeding: landraces – traditional, regionally adapted strains with original genetics that have emerged through natural selection and often share characteristics with inbred lines, though with greater internal diversity. Through targeted breeding, the phenomenon of heterosis (also known as "hybrid vigor") can be achieved. This effect results in offspring that outperform both parents in yield, resistance, and cannabinoid expression.

Genetic Basics: Why the Reproduction Method Matters

Before we dive into which breeding strategy is most effective, it’s worth understanding the reproductive biology of the cannabis plant. Cannabis is typically allogamous, meaning it has separate male and female plants that rely on cross-pollination for reproduction. This reproductive trait brings a major advantage: when two genetically distinct parent plants – such as modern cultivars and landraces – are crossed, their strengths can be combined in the offspring. This is where heterosis comes into play, increasing the likelihood of more vigorous, productive, and resilient plants.

Recurrent Selection: Step by Step Toward the Perfect Strain

For breeders targeting specific traits – such as high cannabinoid content (whether THC or CBD), distinct coloration, or an intense aroma and flavor (organoleptic traits) – recurrent selection is a powerful tool. This process involves repeatedly selecting and propagating the best plants across multiple generations. With each cycle, the desired traits become more prominent. This is particularly effective when working with landraces, which are often not yet genetically uniform and can benefit from careful selection to stabilize their traditional characteristics.

Self-Pollination and Homozygosity: The Foundation of Stability

A proven method for developing genetically stable lines is self-pollination. This technique creates inbred lines with high levels of homozygosity – meaning the plants carry identical gene variants at many loci in their DNA. As a result, these traits are reliably passed on to future generations. This approach is especially promising when further developing classic landraces. Through targeted inbreeding followed by hybridization, it's possible to combine regional, traditional traits with modern performance qualities.

The Finishing Touch: Crossing, Preservation, and Quality Control

At the end of a successful breeding cycle, the goal is to identify crosses that deliver optimal results in terms of yield, consistency, and sensory quality. Ideally, the resulting hybrids combine the strengths of both parent lines – often a modern cultivar and a traditional landrace – unlocking new combinations of quality and performance. At Linda Seeds, our breeding team actively applies this approach – inspired not only by cannabis but also by proven techniques in major crops like corn. Hybrid breeding has long been established there as a key to boosting yield and resilience. However, those aiming to preserve classic, heritage strains – such as many landraces – must also be aware of the risks of inbreeding depression, the decline in vitality due to excessive genetic narrowing. To mitigate this, we analyze key traits in each generation and preserve the most valuable parental lines. This enables secure and reproducible conservation of genetically unique strains.

Conclusion: Inbred Lines, Hybrids, and Landraces – What Produces the Best Results?

Inbred lines provide essential genetic stability and serve as a reliable foundation for breeding. Hybrids capitalize on genetic diversity, offering the potential for stronger, more productive strains. And landraces? They represent a genetic treasure – crucial for both traditional conservation and innovative hybrid development. In practice, this means: while inbred lines lay the groundwork and landraces offer rich genetic variation, it’s often the hybrids that unlock the highest potential – ideal for growers who want to get the most out of their genetics, whether on a small scale or commercially.

The secret to growing giant autoflowers

Autoflowering cannabis strains have revolutionised domestic cultivation with their ultra-fast life cycles and high resistance to varying conditions, promising abundant harvests even for beginners. But behind their apparent simplicity there’s a detail that’s overlooked by many: their relentless biological clock. The key? To understand that it’s not all about growing a plant but about winning a race against time.

A clock that doesn’t stop

Autoflowerings don’t wait for the grower to be ready. They start flowering automatically around the 30th day after germination, regardless of the hours of light that they’re exposed to. This means that, from the moment the seed is hydrated, the plant is already counting down the days to bloom. When there’s a mistake in the vegetative phase of photo-dependent varieties, this can be compensated for with a few extra weeks of growth, but here there are no second chances. Overwatering, a poorly performed transplant, or an inadequate temperature in the first few weeks can make all the difference between one huge plant and another that barely reaches half of its potential.

Germination: the first battle against time

It all starts with a seed and a mantra: patience is not a virtue here. While some growers prefer passive methods, such as leaving the seeds in moist paper for days, autoflowering plants require an accelerated process. A professional top tip is to immerse them in warm water (22 - 24°C) with a few drops of root stimulator or 1% hydrogen peroxide. This cocktail not only softens the seed shell but activates key enzymes for early radicle development. After 6 - 12 hours of hydration, the next step is critical: transfer the seeds to a controlled environment. An airtight container with slightly damp kitchen paper, maintained at 24 - 26°C (which is slightly higher than usually recommended), can reduce germination to just 24 - 48 hours. But problems may arise with an excess of moisture: soaked paper can drown the seeds, depriving them of oxygen. The key is to check them twice a day, spraying water over them only when the paper loses its gloss. And here’s the first common mistake: waiting too long to transplant. The perfect time to transfer a seed to the substrate is when the radicle has reached 1 - 2 cm. Every additional minute that the root is exposed increases stress ― and, in this game, stress is synonymous with the loss of precious days.

Final pot and oxygenated substrate

Autoflowering plants hate transplants. Each movement damages some of their microscopic roots and slows their development ― something that their internal clock does not forgive. Therefore, direct sowing into the final pot (10 - 15 litre) is not just a recommendation but almost an obligation. If you use Jiffys, plugs, or peat pots, you can sow the germinated seed inside them and then transplant the whole plug to the large pot, thereby minimising root alteration. The substrate must be prepared in advance: an aerated mixture combining 50% specialised soil for cannabis, 30% washed coco coir (to prevent compaction), 15% perlite for oxygenation, and 5% vermiculite to retain the nutrients without causing waterlogging. But the real secret is underground. Inoculating the substrate with mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial bacteria 24 hours before sowing creates a symbiotic network that multiplies root efficiency. These microorganisms act as extensions of the root system, exploring the substrate in search of water and nutrients while the plant concentrates its energy on growing upwards.

Irrigation or the art of provocation

Watering an auto is like offering sweets to a child: you want to be generous but without overdoing it. During the first week, the seedling depends on seed reserves, so it only needs light moisture in the central area. But the game changes from the second week: instead of watering the entire surface, watering only around the perimeter of the pot forces the roots to spread out horizontally in search of resources. This method, known as peripheral irrigation, leads to a broad and branched root base, which is essential for a large plant to remain stable. Another trick is to control the drying cycles. Letting the substrate lose 70% of its weight before watering again helps strengthen the roots (you can measure this by lifting the pot). It’s not about getting to the point of wilting, but about creating a mild stress that stimulates stamina. And here the water temperature is crucial: it should always be between 22 and 24°C. Watering with cold water can paralyse growth for hours ― a luxury that no autoflowering can afford.

Beyond the photoperiod

Although autoflowering plants don’t depend on the number of daylight hours to flower, lighting is still a powerful tool. During the first three weeks, a 20/4 cycle (20 hours of light / 4 hours of darkness) provides the perfect balance between energy and rest. But the spectrum also plays a vital role ― in the first two weeks, a cold blue spectrum (6500K) promotes compact and robust growth, avoiding weak and elongated stems. Starting from the third week, gradually introduce red wavelengths to prepare the plant for the imminent flowering without having to sacrifice on vegetative vigour. The most meticulous growers go one step further by scheduling gradual sunrises and sunsets. Instead of turning on the lights at full power, increasing the intensity during the first hour and gradually reducing it at the end of the cycle mimics nature and helps reduce stress. Recent studies suggest that this technique can increase daily photosynthesis by up to 15%, which is an invaluable percentage when every minute counts.

Nutrition: minimum doses, maximum results

The myth that autoflowers are nutrient sensitive still persists, but the reality is rather different. With a progressive approach, they tolerate (and need) nutrients from the first week. The first five days are all about adaptation: only use water with adjusted pH (6.3 - 6.5) so as not to interfere with the seed reserves. From day 6, introduce root stimulators and amino acids at a quarter of the recommended dose, gradually increasing to half by the third week. Foliar feeding is another underutilised resource. Spraying a diluted solution of amino acids and algae extracts on the leaves during the first hours of the day (when the stomata are more open) helps accelerate nutrient absorption. It’s like giving the plant an espresso coffee: a quick boost without saturating the roots.

Wind, stress, and sturdy stems

Another common mistake is to treat autoflowers with excessive pampering. While severe stress is counterproductive, controlled tension can help strengthen the plants. From day 7, exposure to gentle air currents (changing direction every 12 hours) forces the stems to develop stronger fibres. This "passive training" doesn’t require pruning or complex techniques, only an oscillating fan and constant attention to adjust the intensity as the plant grows.

Optimal environmental conditions

Lastly, maintaining a temperature of 20 - 26°C during the day, and allowing a 5 - 10°C drop at night simulates the natural conditions that these strains love. In contrast, humidity should be adjusted like a thermostat: high (65 - 70%) in the first two weeks to compensate for small roots, gradually reducing it to 50 - 60% in the vegetative phase, and to 40 - 50% during the flowering to avoid fungi.

And remember: precision, not haste

Growing giant autoflowering plants is not a matter of luck but rather a plan of millimetric precision. Every choice, from water temperature to the fan angle, must be synchronised with that non-stop internal clock. There is no room for improvisation, but neither for fear.

With constant observation and subtle adjustments, even a rookie grower can transform a tiny seed into a plant that defies expectations. At the end of the day, the secret is not to try to do everything fast, but to do everything you need to at the right time.

The cannabis photoperiod: What’s the best indoor lighting schedule?

The control of the photoperiod in cannabis cultivation is one of the most decisive factors for the success of any indoor crop. Just as the sun marks the biological rhythms of plants in nature, artificial lighting in indoor grows dictates the behaviour, development, and final yield of our plants. Mastering this aspect not only helps to optimise growth, but also to manipulate the natural cycles to obtain crops with greater potential at any time of year.

What’s the photoperiod of cannabis?

In botany, this concept is understood as a unit of alternation between periods of light and darkness, whose repetition controls fundamental biological processes such as germination, growth, flowering, and ripening, enabling plants to use this information to synchronise with the seasons. This means that the full development of plants can be activated or inhibited depending on the light conditions that they’re exposed to. Cannabis is extremely sensitive to light cycles thanks to its sophisticated system of proteins (called phytochromes). These photosensitive receptors detect the presence or absence of light ― and, during the night, phytochromes in their active form naturally degrade, returning to their inactive form. This mechanism allows the plant to "measure" the duration of the periods of darkness. For photo-dependent cannabis plants, this system is crucial: when the nights are longer (exceeding a critical threshold of hours of darkness), hormonal signalling is activated to start the transition to the flowering phase. Therefore, you can keep your indoor plants permanently in vegetative mode with cycles that include short nights; or induce the flowering by providing longer nights. On the other hand, autoflowering genetics derived from Cannabis ruderalis (a strain adapted to regions with long daylight hours during the growing season) automatically flower after a certain period of time, usually between 2 and 4 weeks, without the need for the light cycle to be adjusted. This key difference affects how growers plan their lighting schedules.

Optimal lighting cycles for photo-dependent strains

Photo-dependent varieties depend on specific changes in the photoperiod to progress through all their stages of development. These are the recommended lighting times for each stage:

Seedling stage

During this phase, which usually lasts between 1 and 3 weeks, the plants need constant but gentle light to develop a strong root system and their first pairs of leaves. The most common light cycle is 18/6 (18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness), which provides sufficient energy for photosynthesis whilst allowing a rest period that can benefit the plant’s metabolic processes that occur during the "night". Some growers opt for 24/0 (24 hours of light) during the first few days to maintain consistent temperature and humidity, which is especially useful in indoor environments where seedlings are vulnerable. However, there’s no conclusive evidence that 24/0 is significantly better than 18/6, but one thing that’s absolutely certain is that it will significantly increase your electricity costs!

Top tip: Keep the lights at an appropriate distance (usually 30 - 60 cm for LEDs) to prevent the seedlings from burning or stretching; and use a blue light spectrum to promote compact growth.

Vegetative phase

This stage, which can last between 4 and 8 weeks or even longer (depending on the goals of the grower), is when the plant grows more rapidly, developing a robust structure. The standard lighting cycle is 18/6, which provides an ideal balance between light for photosynthesis and darkness for rest. This cycle mimics the conditions of long summer days, sending a signal to the plant that it should continue growing (given that less than 14 hours of light per day could induce premature flowering). Some growers experiment with 20/4 or 24/0 to accelerate growth, but these schedules may stress the plant or provide benefits that are not proportional to the increase in the energy consumption. A study published in 2022 found that an 16/8 photoperiod was more beneficial than 24/0 in terms of photosynthetic efficiency and reduced damage to chloroplast membranes, suggesting that a period of darkness may be advantageous.

Top tip: During this stage, use lamps with a spectrum rich in blue light to encourage compact and leafy growth. Make sure the light intensity (measured in PPFD or Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) is within the range of 400 - 600 μmol/m2/s to optimise photosynthesis without saturating the plant.

Flowering stage

To induce the flowering of photo-dependent strains, the light cycle is changed to 12/12 (12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness). This schedule mimics the natural conditions of autumn, when days become shorter, sending a signal to the plant that it’s time to reproduce. Consistency is critical at this stage: any interruption in the darkness period, even for a few minutes, can cause stress, delay the flowering, or induce hermaphroditism. The 12/12 cycle is standard for most genetics, although the flowering time may vary: indicas typically take 8 - 10 weeks; sativas, between 10 and 12 weeks; and hybrid varieties usually need somewhere in between. If you’ve kept mother plants under a 24/0 or 18/6 cycle for a long time, and want to switch them to the flowering stage, consider making a gradual transition ― decreasing one hour of light every two days until reaching 12/12 can help reduce stress and improve results.

Top tip: Shift to a spectrum rich in red light during the flowering to maximise flower production. Adjust the light intensity to 600 - 1000 μmol/m2/s, depending on the variety and the ability of the plant to handle the light.

Optimal lighting cycles for autoflowering strains

Autoflowering strains don’t require a change in the photoperiod to flower. This genetic programming enables them to change gears automatically without having to wait for external signals, which makes them a favourite amongst rookie growers or those looking for faster growing cycles. The most common light cycle for autoflowerings is 18/6 (18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness) ― this offers a balance between robust growth and energy efficiency. Many growers also use 20/4 (20 hours of light and 4 hours of darkness) to maximise light exposure and potentially the yielding capacity of their plants. Some others opt for 24/0; but, as with photo-dependent strains, there is no solid evidence that this is significantly better.

Top tip: As autoflowerings have a short life cycle, use a full or mixed light spectrum (blue and red) to support both vegetative growth and flowering. Adjust the light intensity gradually, starting at 300 - 400 μmol/m2/s in the seedling phase, and increasing to 600 - 800 μmol/m2/s during the flowering.

Mastering the art of the photoperiod

The photoperiod is much more than just "turning the lights on and off". It represents an ancestral language between the plant and its environment, a signalling system that has evolved over millennia and that we can now manipulate to our benefit in indoor grows.

The most important thing is consistency: once a cycle has been established, maintaining it rigorously by using programmable timers will ensure that your plants develop their full genetic potential without interruptions or stress. It’s important to remember that, in cannabis cultivation, just as in many other aspects of life, patience and precision are often rewarded, turning your cannabis grow from a simple effort into a resounding success.

What are Fast cannabis strains?: growing faster without losing quality

"Fast" cannabis seeds are ideal for growers who live in cold regions, as they offer the best of both worlds: high speed and great yielding capacity. However, many people have doubts about what exactly these varieties are and how to grow them. In this post, we explain everything you need to know to get the most out of these strains and harvest premium buds in record time.

What are Fast cannabis seeds?

“Fast” cannabis seeds are genetics designed by seed banks to have a shorter flowering period, so they’re ready for harvest about two or three weeks earlier than the good old photo-dependent feminised varieties. This trait offers great advantages for outdoor growers living in cold regions with short summers (like Germany), since their short flowering period prevents the bad autumn weather from ruining their crops.

Are Fast cannabis strains photo-dependent?

Yes. This is one of the questions most frequently asked by growers. Fast strains are NOT autoflowering, so they depend on the number of hours of light that they receive to start flowering. This feature is the most important when it comes to understanding the advantages of this type of genetics, since they need to be grown like any other feminised seed. Therefore, the vegetative period can be extended for as long as you want, which gives you the chance to grow real trees in the purest Californian style (and which will in turn significantly increase your harvest). As long as Fast cannabis plants receive more hours of light than hours of darkness per day (they need a 12/12 photoperiod to start flowering), they will continue with their vegetative growth. We can therefore establish that the only difference between Fast seeds and normal photo-dependent feminised seeds is their shorter flowering period.

How are Fast strains created?

Fast genetics (also known as Fast flowering strains) are created from the cross of a photo-dependent variety with an autoflowering. The result of this union is a cannabis plant that preserves all the qualities of its photo-dependent parent (high THC, crop quality, yielding capacity, etc.) but with the added speed of autos.

This combination enables you to create plants that depend on the light cycle to start flowering, but with a drastically reduced flowering time (up to two weeks less than that of standard varieties). Therefore, Fast strains have flowering cycles of between 6 to 7 weeks, instead of the 8, 9, or 10 that many traditional genetics require.

What are the advantages of Fast flowering cannabis seeds?

These strains have been designed to make life easier for all types of growers, but especially for those living in cold countries with short summers who want to grow cannabis outdoors:

Shorter grow cycle: Thanks to their short flowering period, Fast genetics avoid climate risks and maximise productivity in indoor grows (more crops can be grown per year thanks to their short life cycle).
Greater control and yielding capacity: You can determine the size of your plants (by lengthening or shortening their growth period), and they offer a greater margin for error in the event of a mishap (the plants have enough time to recover in case of pests, fungi, etc.).
You can perform pruning and training techniques: Unlike with autoflowerings, pruning and training techniques such as SCROG or LST can be applied to Fast strains. As these genetics are photo-dependent, there is enough time for the plant to recover and for the desired results to be obtained. This doesn’t happen with autos because their short growth period (of 4 or 5 weeks) makes this type of growing techniques irrelevant.
They offer the same quality and production parameters: Fast seeds maintain the standards of their photo-dependent feminised parents (i.e., THC levels, yielding potential, terpene profile, etc.). Therefore, these varieties offer greater speed without compromising the quality of the crops.

Fast Flowering strains are perfect for you if…

You’re an outdoor grower who lives in a cold region with short summers.

You grow indoors and want to boost your yields by increasing the number of harvests per year.

You’re a rookie grower looking for quick results with less risk of complications at the end of the flowering (which is the most delicate moment of the growing cycle).

Linda Seeds’ best Fast cannabis seeds

We wanted to go a step further in our breeding of Fast genetics. That’s why our team of breeders has created four new varieties that are not only fast flowering, but have also been designed especially for outdoor cultivation in the German climate. This has been possible because, in addition to introducing "the speed" of an autoflowering in the cross, we have also selected strains with very specific traits that make them especially resistant to climates in northern regions, where sudden temperature changes and summer rains are frequent. Discover these gems designed especially for outdoor growing in Germany:

Hollands Dope (F1 Fast): With a flowering time of just 6 - 7 weeks, this strain is ready for harvest by mid- to late September.
Balkonien Glück (F1 Fast): Only 6 weeks of flowering, and highly resistant to mould and temperature fluctuations.
Datscha Grün (F1 Fast): A fast-flowering and hardy sativa strain that has been optimised specifically for the climate of Central Europe.
Gartenglück (F1 Fast): An ideal outdoor fast-flowering strain that is robust and high yielding.

FAQs about Fast Flowering cannabis strains

Let’s review some concepts…

Do Fast varieties lose potency?

Not at all! Many fast-flowering strains produce THC levels above 20%.

Are Fast genetics autoflowering?

No. Although they contain autoflowering genes, Fast strains are still photo-dependent.

What is the flowering period of a Fast strain?

These genetics complete their flowering period in about 6 - 7 weeks from the moment of change in the light cycle (from 18/6 to 12/12), as compared to the 9 - 10 weeks of the normal photo-dependent strains.

Can Fast cannabis seeds be grown indoors?

Yes. As they’re fast and easy to grow, they’re in fact incredibly popular for indoor growing.

Do Fast cannabis strains have less flavour?

No. Modern Fast genetics offer intense and complex flavours, just like their predecessors.

If you’re looking for high speed, quality, and yielding potential, Fast genetics are an incredibly safe bet. Whether you’re a rookie or an experienced grower, these strains enable you to optimise your times without compromising on results.

How to identify and solve the problems of newly born cannabis seedlings

Although cannabis is a plant of extraordinary resilience, it can be quite vulnerable during its first days of life, so meticulous attention is required at that stage. Seedlings newly emerged from the seeds are like newborns in a new world: their roots barely explore the substrate; their leaves are delicate translucent membranes; and their survival depends on a fragile balance between light, water, and nutrients. And we, as growers, have a duty to care for them.

Growing cannabis is like building a house: if the foundations are not solid, the whole structure will be compromised. And there’s no better way to understand this than by watching how a healthy seedling easily overcomes later challenges, whilst one that’s weakened in its early days often carries problems throughout its whole life cycle. This is why it’s essential to learn the most common problems affecting newly germinated cannabis seedlings, unravelling their causes and offering practical solutions to transform the initial chaos into a harvest that is truly blessed.

1. Overwatering: the silent drowning

The most common mistake among rookies is to confuse affection with excessive attention. And daily watering, using pots without proper drainage, or using dense substrates that retain water like a sponge, literally chokes the roots, depriving them of vital oxygen.

Symptoms: Leaves hang flaccid like wet rags; the substrate remains cold to the touch; and greenish algae spots may appear on its surface. The stem weakens near the base, adopting a watery brown colour.

Solutions: Let the substrate dry to the top layer (2 - 3 cm) before re-watering. If the problem persists, add perlite or coco coir to improve aeration. It is better for the seedling to "ask" for water than for it to swim in abundance.

2. Deficit irrigation: the invisible thirst

At the opposite end of overwatering, dehydration arises from neglect or from lack of understanding of the real needs of the plant. Dry environments, excessively porous substrates, or a simple oversight can turn the environment into a miniature desert.

Symptoms: Leaves crumple like parchment paper; their edges curl; and the substrate separates from the pot walls forming cracks. The plant seems to shrink, as if trying to protect itself from the world.

Solutions: Establish a watering ritual by observing the weight of the pot (light when it needs water) and the moisture of the substrate. For seedlings in crisis, immerse the base of the pot in water, which allows for gradual hydration without causing a shock.

3. Poor lighting: desperate stretching

When the seedlings don’t receive enough light energy, they start a race against time to reach an intensity of light that never arrives. This phenomenon, called ethylation, weakens their main structure.

Symptoms: Thin spaghetti-like stems that twist desperately seeking light; pale leaves; and abnormal distance between the nodes. The plant looks like a contortionist in a balancing act.

Solutions: Bring the lights closer but always maintaining a safe distance (15 - 30 cm for LEDs); and ensure a spectrum rich in blue light (6500K) that inhibits stretching. If the seedlings are already elongated, bury part of the stem when transplanting: it will develop adventitious roots and gain stability.

4. Light burns: the solar fire

The very same light that gives life can become an executioner when the intensity exceeds the photoprotection capacity of the young leaves. This light stress leaves wounds that limit the photosynthetic capacity of the plants.

Symptoms: White or yellow spots on the leaves that look like scars; edges rolled up like shields; and paralysed growth despite seemingly ideal conditions.

Solutions: If you feel an uncomfortable level of heat when you place your hand at the height of the plants, the light is too close. Outdoors, gradually acclimatise the seedlings using shading meshes during the first week.

5. Extreme temperatures: thermal stress

Seedlings are biological temperature sensors: every degree above or below their ideal range alters their metabolism. Cold conditions paralyse their functions, whereas heat accelerates them until they collapse.

Symptoms: When cold, the leaves take on purple tones and growth seems to freeze in time. With excessive heat, the leaves bend into a "claw" shape and the stem becomes brittle.

Solutions: For cold conditions, use heat mats under the pots. For heat, install indirect oscillating fans and consider extraction systems. The ideal range: 20 - 26°C during the day, and never below 18°C at night.

6. Wrong substrate: root asphyxia

An inappropriate substrate is like a straitjacket for the roots: it compresses them, suffocates them, and finally strangles them. The density of the growing medium determines the exploration capacity of the root system.

Symptoms: Slow growth despite providing care that’s apparently correct; brown and fragile roots when checking the root ball; and a very distinctive damp, rotting smell.

Solutions: Prepare a spongy substrate – mix 60% coco coir, 30% perlite, and 10% worm castings. For emergencies, flush the roots with diluted hydrogen peroxide (1 ml per litre).

7. The nutritional deception: deficiencies and excesses

Nutritional balance in seedlings is a delicate ballet: too early and the roots burn; too late and growth is stunted. The key is to understand that the first leaves live on seed reserves.

Symptoms: Leaves with green veins on a yellow background (iron deficiency); tips burnt like cigarettes (nitrogen excess); or an unnatural dark green colour that seems painted on (phosphorus toxicity).

Solutions: If you use fertilised substrate, wait until the third week to add a ¼ dose of liquid nutrients. Measure the pH of the irrigation water (6.0 - 6.5 for soil) with a digital meter, not with test strips.

8. Pathogenic fungi: the invisible enemy

Fungi are silent opportunists that take advantage of the slightest weakness in the plant’s defences. In seedlings, they mainly attack the neck of the stem, cutting off the vital flow of nutrients.

Symptoms: Stems that are strangled at the base as if an invisible thread squeezed them (damping off); oily spots on the leaves (mildew); or a white powder that looks like talc (powdery mildew).

Solutions: Apply a horsetail infusion as a natural preventive. For active attacks, use sodium bicarbonate in a foliar spray (1 teaspoon per litre). And ensure constant ventilation.

9. Transplant trauma: the shock of moving

Transplanting is an earthquake in the seedling’s microcosm: it alters its relationship with the substrate, damages capillary roots, and abruptly changes its environment. A bad transplant can paralyse its growth for days.

Symptoms: Fallen leaves like “sad dog ears” and a general feeling of plant "fainting".

Solutions: Transplant only when the substrate is slightly wet (neither dry nor muddy). Keep the plants in semi-shade for 2 - 3 days after transplanting and avoid fertilising until they show signs of recovery.

The art of listening to your seedlings

Cannabis seedlings are masters in the silent language of fallen leaves and inclined stems; and their survival depends on our ability to interpret these signs with modesty and accuracy. Every problem is a lesson in the school of botanical patience, from an excess of liquid love to the light that burns instead of nourishing.

And the Linda Seeds team knows that behind every successful grow is a grower who has learned to read between the lines of chlorophyll. That’s why we invite you to see these early days not as a battlefield, but as an intimate dialogue with life.

Simple and eco-friendly cannabis growing practices to reduce your environmental impact

Sustainable cannabis cultivation is gaining more and more relevance in a world where environmental awareness has become a priority. As small growers, we have a unique opportunity to make a difference by implementing green practices that not only benefit the planet but can also improve the quality of our crops, reduce costs, and create a growing cycle that’s more in harmony with nature. Here we propose simple and original techniques, backed by the experience of real growers, which can transform your small grow into an example of sustainability.

Optimisation of water consumption

A highly effective practice is the implementation of rainwater harvesting systems, which can be as simple as placing barrels under drains. To maximise the efficiency of the collected water, improvised drip irrigation techniques can be used – you can use recycled bottles with small holes in the caps, partially buried next to the plant, and filled with water. This allows for a slow release of the water directly into the root zone. Another practice is the use of hydrogels, which are superabsorbent polymers that can be mixed with the substrate to retain water and release it gradually.

Environmental impact: Less wasted water and zero electric power for automated irrigation. And you’re also reusing materials.

Top tip: If you grow indoors, use a 500 ml bottle with a single tiny hole to control the flow even better. Adjust according to your plant’s needs.

Energy efficiency in indoor grows

For the home grower with limited resources, an effective practice is to use homemade reflectors made of cardboard and foil or reflective paint – these can increase light efficiency by up to 30% without additional energy consumption. You can also use soda cans cut into strips and glued around your LED lamp to direct the light towards the plants. Another common practice involves the synchronisation of the grow cycles with the electricity rates, scheduling the lighting periods during reduced rate hours (usually at night) to significantly reduce energy costs.

Environmental impact: Less energy consumption and reuse of metal waste that often ends up in landfills.
Top tip: Make sure the aluminium is well cleaned to avoid odours; and don’t use it with intense heat lamps (such as HPS), as it could melt.

Use of domestic microclimates

Natural microclimates within the home can reduce energy consumption in indoor grows. For example, placing your grow near a boiler or water heater allows residual heat to be used during the cold months, thereby reducing the need for additional heating. You can also use homemade storage heaters made with bottles containing black tinted water, which absorb heat during the day (or during the hours with lighting) and slowly release it at night, helping to maintain a more stable temperature with lower energy expenditure.

Environmental impact: This lowers energy consumption by reducing reliance on air conditioning systems.
Top tip: Place the black bottles on a reflective tray to maximise light and heat absorption; and check that they don’t obstruct the ventilation.

Composting and recycling of organic waste

Forget about buying expensive substrates. A technique that is gaining popularity is to create a "living substrate" with earthworms. Mix organic soil with kitchen scraps (vegetable peels, eggshells, coffee grounds,…), and add a few red worms (available in fishing or gardening shops). These decompose organic matter, aerate the soil, and produce castings (i.e., a nutrient-rich natural fertiliser). A "floor system" can be created by using overlapping pots with holes that allow the worms to move between the different levels, processing waste and continuously feeding the plants.

Environmental impact: You reduce organic waste by recycling it at home whilst eliminating the carbon footprint associated with the production and transport of commercial substrates.
For indoors: Use a pot with a perforated base and a tray underneath to prevent the worms from escaping.

Natural control of pests and diseases

Neem oil is a powerful repellent that discourages the most common cannabis pests. It can be mixed with natural potassium soap, which improves the adhesion of the oil to the leaves. Instead of insecticides, resort to natural allies and homemade traps. Release ladybirds (you can buy them online or in nurseries) so they feed on aphids and other bugs in your outdoor grow. Crustacean flour is another surprisingly effective solution, as it contains chitin, which stimulates the plant’s natural defence mechanisms. Or aloe vera gel, that not only fights fungi and bacteria, but also acts as a biostimulant.

Environmental impact: You avoid toxic chemicals that pollute the soil and water, as well as supporting local biodiversity with the ladybirds.
Note: Indoors, use a yellow adhesive tape smeared with honey to catch small flies.

Beneficial companion planting

Planting basil or mint around cannabis not only repels insects such as aphids and white flies, but it can also improve the aromatic profile of the flowers through terpene association. A less well-known technique is the use of trap plants such as sunflowers, which attract aphids away from cannabis, allowing the grower to concentrate the problem on expendable plants. Planting clover or vetch between seasons helps prevent erosion, improve soil structure, and add organic matter. Rotating cannabis with other plants, such as legumes that fix nitrogen, or crops that replenish nutrients, helps break pest and disease cycles, thereby maintaining soil fertility.

Environmental impact: It reduces the use of chemical pesticides and improves soil health, preventing degradation due to monoculture.
Top tip: If you use sunflowers as trap plants, position them about 30 cm away from cannabis so that aphids concentrate on them and are unable to jump to your plants.

Organic and sustainable fertilisation

Bat guano tea (which is rich in phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen) is particularly effective during the flowering stage. To prepare it, just mix one tablespoon of guano for every two litres of water, and leave it to stand for five days. A surprising alternative is black sesame tea, which is rich in calcium and iron – it is made by mixing four tablespoons of sesame seeds with 1.5 litres of water, leaving it to stand for 24 hours. Another innovative option involves fermenting ripe fruit with molasses and water in an airtight container for two weeks, creating a concentrate rich in enzymes and nutrients.

Environmental impact: This minimises dependence on synthetic fertilisers and makes great use of natural resources or organic waste.
Top tip: For fruit tea, use apple or ripe banana leftovers (cannabis loves potassium), and shake the container every two days to avoid bad odours.

Small steps, big changes

Growing cannabis at home doesn’t have to be a burden on the planet; and, with these simple practices, you can reduce your environmental footprint without complicating your life. Best of all, these ideas, although uncommon, have been tested by growers like you in backyards and apartments all around the world. So next time you water your girls, just think: what can I do differently today? The planet (and your buds) will thank you for it!

The most common mistakes when starting an outdoor cannabis grow

Starting an outdoor cannabis grow is an exciting experience, but many rookie growers often make basic mistakes in their planning, which can affect the future health and yielding capacity of their plants. Most of these problems can be avoided with a bit of information, so let’s review the most common mistakes, along with some practical tips that will help you to emerge victorious when it comes to harvest time.

1. Choosing the wrong location for your grow

One of the most common mistakes is choosing a bad place to plant, either because it has little direct sunlight, it’s exposed to adverse elements, or it can be easily spotted by neighbours and intruders. The lack of sun will slow down the growth of cannabis, causing the plants to stretch (i.e., to develop long and thin stems as they look for the light), which significantly reduces the final production of buds. On the other hand, excessive exposure to the wind can break the branches and dry the substrate too quickly. Security is also a key factor, as a visible grow can lead to theft or to being reported to the police.

Solution: Ideally, you should choose a south-facing location that gets at least 6 - 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Look for a discreet and protected area, for example near a wall or hedge that serves as a windbreak but doesn’t cast excessive shade. Accessibility also counts: a place near a water source will facilitate irrigation, and a space where you can work comfortably will help you to look after your plants on a regular basis.

2. Using the wrong substrate

Saving on soil is one of the most serious mistakes that you could make. Many beginners turn to unprepared garden soil, or to cheap, low-quality substrates, which are usually too compact (or clayey), or contain latent pests. An example of this is homemade compost soil, which may include larvae that will force the roots to fight to grow and feed. In addition, a substrate that’s poor in organic matter may not provide the essential nutrients needed for growth.

Solution: Invest in a good substrate for cannabis from the very beginning. This should be light and airy, with good drainage capacity and organic nutrient content; and with a loose structure that includes perlite, coco coir, or another aerating medium to ensure proper drainage. Adding worm castings or compost will help enrich the soil with beneficial microorganisms, which will in turn improve soil structure and fertility.

3. Not making the right decision between the ground or a pot

This decision is linked to the previous one and may be decisive. Planting in soil allows the roots to grow without restriction, resulting in larger plants. But, unlike with pots, the plants cannot be moved in the case of adverse weather conditions. Pots require more frequent watering because the substrate dries faster… And then of course there’s which size to choose.

Solution: If the garden soil is suitable, planting directly in the ground can be highly beneficial. Prepare the area in advance: Dig and aerate the soil, mix organic soil amendments (worm castings, mature compost, guano) and drainage material (sand, perlite) as needed. If you need mobility or the soil is poor, opt for pots. Use small pots for seedlings (0.5 – 1 L) during the first few weeks, and then transplant them to larger pots as the plants grow: (5 - 10 L) for the vegetative period, and finally a large pot (15 - 20+ L) for the flowering phase.

4. Germinating outdoors

It often happens that rookie growers plant their seeds directly into the soil or definitive pot, leaving them out in the open immediately, without ensuring a proper temperature range or without protecting the seedlings from external factors. These include cold stress, strong winds, direct intense sun that can dehydrate them, or birds and insects that can eat them.

Solution: The best practice is to start germination in a controlled environment. You can germinate at home and let the plants grow for one or two weeks under soft lighting (a fluorescent tube, a simple LED lamp, or close to a sunny window). When your seedlings are 1 - 2 weeks old, you can move them outdoors; but do this gradually: Take them out for only a couple of hours at first, protect them from strong winds, and don’t leave them totally out in the open from the very beginning. Gradually increase the time they spend outside and the intensity of sunlight that they receive.

5. Over or under-watering

Over-watering is perhaps the number one mistake that rookies make. Fearing that their plants are “lacking water", many growers water every day or keep the soil constantly moist, which can cause root suffocation and the development of fungi. On the contrary, too little watering can lead to wilted leaves and stunted growth. It is often said that over-watering is worse than under-watering, since a slightly dry plant can easily recover, but a plant with rotten roots is unlikely to survive.

Solution: Do not water out of habit – water only when needed, checking the moisture of the substrate before each watering session, and adjusting the frequency according to the climate. Water only when the substrate is dry at a depth of about 3 - 5 cm. In summer, it may be necessary to water daily; but in colder or more humid climates, watering should be less frequent.

6. Inappropriate exposure to sunlight or incorrect photoperiod

Photo-dependent plants depend on the hours of light and darkness that they receive to flower properly. If placed outside too early, when the days are still short, they can start flowering prematurely and then revert to vegetative growth (or revegetate). This "flowering – revegetation - new flowering" process is highly stressful for the plant – it consumes too much energy and can lead to hermaphroditism, or simply to a loss in yield. On the other hand, exposure to artificial night lights can interrupt the photoperiod: a balcony light lit for several hours at night can prevent the plant from flowering as it should in the summer.

Solution: In regions with short days at the beginning of spring, it is advisable to germinate indoors and wait until mid-season to take the plants outside, or until the days have more than 14 hours of natural light. If for some reason you need to start very early (i.e., in late winter), consider keeping the plants indoors with extra light until the length of the day increases, or opt for autoflowering strains.

7. Not selecting the strain according to climate and growing times

It is important to choose genetics adapted to the conditions of your environment, prioritising hardy strains if you live in humid areas. Accurately calculating the growing times is also crucial. If you sow too late, the plants will not have enough time to develop before flowering; whereas if you start too early, you could face problems such as frost or premature flowering.

Solution: Do some research into the most suitable varieties for your area. Photo-dependent strains should be planted in mid-spring so that they can grow sufficiently before flowering. Autoflowers can be sown in several batches throughout the summer.

8. Other common errors to avoid

Furthermore, there are several other frequent mistakes that should be internalised to avoid falling into them:

The grower should also be a meteorologist: Climate forecasting is always a plus. Anticipate the unexpected and use stakes or meshes to protect the branches from the wind; cover the plants with plastic or tarpaulins in case of heavy rains; and move the pots into the shade during extreme heat waves.

Don’t move the plants around unnecessarily: A little controlled movement is fine (for example, rotating the pots so that the plants catch the sun more evenly). However, if you drastically change the plant environment too often, they can become stressed. Plants do appreciate a certain stability in their microclimate.

You should keep a record and learn from past mistakes: Write down the time of germination, the time of fertilisation, and the times when problems emerged, and how you fixed them. Every mistake is a valuable lesson: Each grow will make you a better grower if you reflect on what happened.

Don’t expect miracles without putting in the effort: Finally, a common mistake is to think that the plant will grow on its own without any care – a concept which usually ends badly. A successful grow involves dedicating some time to it every day or two, even if it’s just to keep an eye on it.

And please get this motto tattooed on your arm: Perseverance always trumps negligence. Growing cannabis outdoors is a continuous learning process, but with practice and attention to detail, each new season will be better than the last.

Tips for Growing Cannabis Indoors: Best Soil & Techniques | Linda Seeds

Learn the best tips for growing cannabis indoors, from choosing the best soil to optimizing your indoor cannabis grow. Start your indoor grow today!

Tips for growing cannabis indoors

You've decided to start indoor cannabis grow, especially given the trend towards legalization — it's pretty relevant. Weed cultivation indoors has many advantages and disadvantages. At first, many questions may arise. So, let's dive into the details, dot the i's, and cross the t's in this matter.

Why Grow Cannabis Indoors?

Growing marijuana indoors is more expensive by requiring special equipment and takes up some space in one's home. These are some of the few problems that are minor when compared to the numerous advantages of indoor cannabis growing. I suggest focusing on the latter. In short, we have full control over the process at any time. Both physically and legally. To wit:

Growing conditions. We can manage temperature, light level, humidity, watering, nutrients, soil quality, and planting density.
No additional treatment is involved. Given the plant's non-exposure to parasites and pests, and its low exposure to contagious diseases, this method does not require any chemical or biological treatment applied on the marijuana plant. It is economically viable and more environmentally friendly.
Can be grown in any season. There is no need to adjust to the seasons or the weather, so you can get multiple harvests.

Summing up, we get a more controllable and predictable process, a greener product that is always at hand. The choice, of course, is yours, but for beginners and people with limited time, it's a great pick. And now, let's see exactly what is involved.

Essential Tools and Equipment for Indoor Cannabis Growing

We need some equipment, which is obvious. It is necessary to provide optimal conditions for the plant and make the growing process comfortable for yourself. Brands and manufacturers may differ, so choose according to your needs, but this list is proven by experience of growing indoor cannabis.

Growing tent: The tent will help you create a separate area for plants where you can control all conditions: light, temperature, humidity. It will also help to prevent light scattering and evaporation or odors.
Plastic tray: The tray and pots are obvious for easy placement of plants. This will help keep the growing area clean.
Lights: Proper lighting helps the plant grow faster and be more productive. For the vegetative stage — when the plant sprout begins to grow leaves, stems, and roots — you will want a grow light of around 100 to 125 watts. After around two to four weeks of vegetation you should switch to a grow light of about 250 watts or above to trigger flowering.
Fans: It is important to ensure the circulation of warm air and its constant replacement. This helps to grow cannabis faster and more efficiently under the right temperature conditions, as well as to avoid unpleasant odors.
Filters for air purification to avoid odors, a thermometer, and a hygrometer are optional, but will help you better control the growing indoors.

This is the list we came up with. Of course, you can add more, but this is completely sufficient, at least for the beginning. Use and enjoy.

Choosing the Best Place for Indoor Cannabis Growing

So you're ready to start, and you have all the equipment you need. But where exactly? How to choose the right place and how to grow cannabis indoor? First of all, it should be a place that is convenient for you, especially if you live in the same building. Also, make sure that children and animals do not have access to the place where marijuana is grown. In addition, the plant has a specific smell, so you should not place it in a room where it can disturb you. The next important consideration is the size. There is a so-called dark stage in the growing process, without light for indoor growing weed. Violation of this period leads to further problems with the growth of the marijuana bush. So, choose a grow house where you can provide first darkness and then the right light. Some states require that marijuana be grown out of sight of others. This rule should be followed. After considering all of the above, you should be able to choose the right place. The article takes into account the key points, so this is a minimum list of requirements.

Preparing Your Indoor Grow Space

The place is chosen, the equipment has been purchased. Now let's set up the growing room. First of all, you need to provide protection from light. This is very important because in the dark phase, light can harm the plant. The next step is to install fans and an air purifier to ensure air flow and avoid unpleasant odors. If you plan to use an irrigation system, which can be necessary when there are several bushes, then the next phase is this. We can then move on to installing the correct lighting for cannabis indoor. When the bush has come out of the dark phase, it needs 12 to 18 hours of light, depending on the plant's cycle. This corresponds to the length of daylight hours. It would be nice to automate this process with a timer. If you plan to use a thermometer, humidifier, and other additional devices, you can add them after all of the above. Make sure the room is clean. You've done it, the important point of preparation is complete.

Choosing the Best Soil for Cannabis Indoor Growth

Here are some options to choose the best soil for cannabis indoor:

Loamy soil is considered ideal for cannabis because of its balanced composition of sand, silt and clay. It supports healthy root development and is relatively easy to work with, making it the preferred choice for many cannabis growers.
Sandy soil has coarse particles that provide excellent drainage and aeration. While it may not retain nutrients as effectively as loamy or clay soils, it can be useful for preventing overwatering and root rot. Incorporating organic matter and compost into sandy soil can improve its ability to hold nutrients, making it a viable option for growing cannabis in certain conditions.
Coconut fiber, derived from coconut husks, is a popular medium for growing cannabis . It has a neutral pH and is reusable, making it an environmentally friendly option. When mixed with other soil components, coconut fiber can improve overall soil texture and fertility. Check out our coconut fiber products for cannabis plants.
There are also numerous ready-mixed soils that are optimized for cannabis plants.

We hope these tips will be useful to you and help you understand the process of growing cannabis. If you find such materials interesting, we will be happy to share them. There are many more tips and life hacks that we can show you.

10 top tips for maximising the growth of cannabis in small spaces

Growing cannabis in reduced spaces can be a rewarding task that allows you to enjoy a personal supply of high-quality buds without the need for a huge grow. With careful planning and smart techniques, you can maximise your yields even in the smallest areas.

Cannabis is such a versatile plant that it can grow almost anywhere if given the right light and nutrients. You don’t need a huge grow room, a commercial greenhouse, or a large garden to grow plants with delicious and potent flowers – you can do it in a cupboard, an old piece of furniture, an empty computer tower, or even in the corner of your room where you may already have some indoor plants. Growing in a reduced space also has its advantages, as small cannabis plants are easier to handle and hide, so you can grow them more discreetly. In addition, a small grow doesn’t produce as much odour or machine noise, so it attracts less attention. But growing cannabis in tight spaces also requires a combination of creativity and technical expertise, as you will see with these 10 basic tips that will get you closer to success.

1- Choose compact genetics

Every good grow starts with a good strain. Look for shorter, bushier varieties, which are more suitable for small areas. Sativas are known for their lanky appearance and a more open bud structure, whereas indicas tend to grow short and robust and produce denser buds. Hybrids may have features of both. For a small grow, indicas will probably be easier to maintain. And you can certainly try to grow autoflowering cannabis plants, which grow in half the time, so they’re perfect for this.

2- Don’t burn your plants with the lighting

If you grow indoors, you will need artificial lighting, unless you have a windowsill with some hours of direct sunlight. Grow lights get very hot and should be kept at a safe distance from the plants so that the buds and leaves don’t get burnt. That’s why LEDs are really changing the game for small grows, as they provide high-quality full spectrum light whilst emitting minimal heat, which in turn reduces the need for climate control equipment to reduce the temperature in the grow.

3- Train your plants

In confined spaces, plants can be kept short using certain growing techniques which can also lead to increased yields. Low stress training (LST) involves tying the branches in a more horizontal plane to maximise the exposure of the shoots to light and air to help create additional colas. High stress training (HST) is a more aggressive method, as it uses pruning techniques, such as topping or super cropping, to increase the number of buds and to promote a more uniform canopy.

4- Maintain proper air circulation

Climate control is certainly crucial in a small grow. The temperature should ideally be maintained at 20 - 25ºC, with a relative humidity of 40 to 75%, depending on the plant’s stage of growth. Using LED lights will reduce the overall temperature and the need to cool your grow, but you’ll still need good ventilation. Fresh air will give your plants a boost to grow, so use small, oscillating fans strategically placed to achieve this.

5- Choose space-saving pots

Opt for compact-sized pots or fabric grow bags, which can fit well into a limited space. It may seem obvious, but small pots are for small plants and large pots are meant for big plants. Autoflowering strains don’t require the same amount of space as many vigorous indica-sativa hybrids for their roots to develop properly. 6 litre pots should be big enough to comfortably grow the majority of squat autos and indicas.

6- Select the ideal growing medium

Your choice of growing medium will significantly affect the health and yielding potential of your plants. Soil is a traditional option that can be quite forgiving for rookies but can also be rather bulky. For smaller spaces, consider hydroponic systems, which use nutrient-rich water and reduce the need for large pots. Another effective method is coco coir, a lightweight and reusable medium that provides excellent drainage and aeration.

7- Implement efficient nutrient management

In small spaces, it is essential to avoid overfeeding or nutritional imbalances. If you use quality soil or a hydroponic setup, simply following the nutrient plan recommended for a specific strain is more than enough. Regularly monitor pH levels and electrical conductivity to ensure your plants receive the necessary nutrients without wasting any resources. And always remember: in small spaces, less is more. It is easier to correct a nutrient deficiency than to deal with an excess of nutrients.

8- Water little but often

Watering in small spaces should be accurate to avoid a lack or an excess of nutrients. You may consider using a drip irrigation system, but manual watering is most effective. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between irrigation sessions to prevent root rot and other problems associated with excessive moisture. In other words: the less soil there is, the faster it will dry up. Be aware that you’ll need to water frequently, so do yourself a favour and make sure you can water the plants comfortably and efficiently.

9- Minimise the duration of the vegetative cycle

If you grow a feminised photo-dependent plant, these will typically double in size during the flowering phase. You can shorten the vegetative cycle to keep your grow at a reduced height – in indoor grows, you can reach the desired size and have strong root development in just 3 or 4 weeks. In addition to adjusting the size, short cycles also reduce the risk of diseases or pathogens: the faster the plants are harvested, the less time there is for any problems to manifest.

10- Expect realistic results

Finally, as with any cannabis grow, it’s important to set some realistic expectations regarding the size and quality of your harvest, as well as the time it will take to get from seed to harvest. Generally speaking, if you grow in a small 35 x 35 x 75 cm space and use an average of approximately 30W of light during the whole grow cycle, you can expect to harvest between 25 and 45 g. This is obviously dependant on the variety, your nutrient regime, the training techniques used, and your skill level. You can usually go from seed to harvest in 3 - 4 months, depending on your light cycle and the genetics of your plants. As you can see, it is possible to get a good crop in a small or even tiny space, but it can be difficult if you don’t have much growing experience. Therefore, it is essential that you know all about the basics, how to train the plants, and everything you will need for the specific setup you will be using to grow. Once you have all this information, growing small plants is then basically the same as growing large plants, so don’t be afraid to give it a try because it’s definitely worth it!

Guide to growing autoflowering cannabis seeds in Germany

Germany is experiencing a green awakening thanks to its pioneering legal framework that already permits the personal cultivation of marijuana. In this post, we explain why growing autoflowering genetics can be the key to a successful harvest in this country.

What are autoflowering cannabis seeds?

Autoflowerings are cannabis strains that DO NOT depend on the number of hours of light that they receive to flower. Therefore, they start flowering automatically around week 4 or 5, and have a full life cycle that can range between 8 and 11 weeks, depending on the strain.

Why are autoflowerings ideal for growing in Germany?

In this article, we’ll focus specifically on the weather conditions in Germany and the benefits that this type of cannabis strains can bring in this country. Having said that, the top tips below could also be applicable to other countries with northern climates.

Benefits of autoflowering seeds for cultivation in Germany

Automatic strains have made outdoor cannabis cultivation viable in regions where there was previously a much lower chance of success. Some of the reasons for this include the following:

Short life cycle. Automatic varieties are perfect for regions with short summers, as you can germinate your seeds in mid-June and then harvest aromatic buds by the end of August. This avoids the bad autumn weather, which in some German areas usually arrives early and abruptly, ruining your precious flowers.

Their speed reduces exposure to pests and fungi. Therefore, they’re ideal for rookie growers, or for growing on a large scale and minimising these potential setbacks that can reduce the yield.

Contained size that’s ideal for discreet grows. This type of plant is very well suited to reduced spaces such as decent-sized windows, balconies, discreet gardens, or terraces. Therefore, they’re the preferred choice of urban growers, but also of dispensaries with commercial crops that need to take advantage of every inch of their facilities.

Speed without compromising quality. It is true that the first autoflowerings that were launched onto the market didn’t meet the quality standards of feminised seeds. Nowadays, however, thanks to the great work of breeders and seed banks, these strains can offer premium levels in terms of flavour, yielding capacity, and terpene and cannabinoid content. So, if you’ve heard that the quality of their crops is not as high as that of other genetics, let us tell you that this myth has been well and truly busted.

The solution for those who don’t want to wait: Autoflowerings allow you to harvest ultra-resinous buds in record time and with no complications, so they’re the best choice for those who want premium results without any hassle. This is an easy and rewarding option for rookies starting their growing venture under the cover of legality in Germany, and even for those who want to grow several harvests throughout the season.

Adaptability: Summer in Germany is characterised by its climatic variability, with frequent intervals of full sun, winds, and summer rains. Autoflowering strains are versatile and highly adaptable – they’re all-terrain hybrids that can weather the highly variable German climate. In addition, they can be easily moved thanks to their compact size, so they can be better protected from rain and unexpected strong winds.

Light pollution: As autoflowerings don’t depend on the photoperiod to start flowering, they aren’t affected by light pollution from lampposts, etc.

Low maintenance: In indoor grows, they eliminate the need for light cycle adjustments, which makes them ideal for beginners and for growers with busy schedules.

Top tips to grow autoflowering cannabis in Germany

Autoflowering strains are easy to grow and handle. However, there are some factors you should keep in mind to avoid making rookie mistakes.

Choose the right autoflowering strain for the German climate

Opt for hardy varieties that can easily adapt to cold summers, such as:

Auto Do si Dos by Linda Seeds – a strain that delivers a high-flying effect combined with the best American flavour: a profile with notes of lemon tart that overlaps an earthy background. In a nutshell, a cold-resistant automatic plant that’s ideal for growing in Germany.
Auto Northern Lights is a classic that offers out-of-this-world yields even in regions with northern climates. This is a potent strain by Linda Seeds that you’ll also find in bulk format for large-scale cultivation.

Most common mistakes when growing autoflowerings

Growing automatic strains is very simple as long as you never forget these golden rules:

Use an aerated substrate: Autoflowering strains have a short and limited life cycle, so every day of the plant’s life counts. To speed up their metabolic processes and achieve the maximum yield, it is best to use a substrate that is slightly more airy than normal. A good option is to use a mixture of 3⁄4 of soil and 1⁄4 of coco coir, arlite, or another substrate that facilitates the aeration of the mix.

Avoid overwatering during the first few weeks of life. Soil that is too wet for too long can block the growth of the plant. Water more often using smaller amounts during the first 3 - 4 weeks of life, making sure that the pot doesn’t become flooded so that the roots don’t get waterlogged.

Avoid transplanting. Place your cannabis seedling in its final pot once the seed has germinated. Otherwise, your autoflowering plant could become stressed and stop growing.

Avoid pruning or training methods. Autos don’t have a vegetative period long enough to recover, so these techniques won’t serve any purpose.

Just like any other type of cannabis, autoflowers love the sun. When growing outdoors, place them in sunny spots where they can get the best of the German summer.

If you’re going to grow autoflowering seeds indoors, make sure your plants get at least 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness throughout the entire growth cycle (some even prefer a 20/4 photoperiod). Since the cost of electricity in Germany isn’t the cheapest, buying an LED lighting system may be the best long-term option to avoid an excessive increase in your electricity bill.

Another top tip if you’re going to grow marijuana in Germany is to prepare for the arrival of inclement weather. This should be done regardless of whether you’re choosing autoflowering or feminised photo-dependent seeds. Sudden temperature changes in the German summer are common, so go ahead and create a system to protect your plants from rain or extremely cold nights. You can use awnings or create a temporary greenhouse with clear plastic. Thanks to their great speed, low maintenance, and high adaptability, autoflowering strains offer an ideal solution to overcome the challenges of the German climate. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced grower, these genetics will be your best ally, especially if you’re considering growing them outdoors during the summer season.

How to choose the best cannabis seeds for cold climates

Growing cannabis outdoors can be a real challenge, especially in colder climates with short growing seasons. Choosing the right strain can significantly improve the chances of a successful harvest, even in regions where temperatures are low and weather conditions are harsh. There’s also a number of key factors that you must take into account when selecting the best cannabis varieties for this purpose.

Before we begin, let’s answer the big question: Can you grow cannabis in cold climates? The answer isn’t that simple and depends on several factors, such as the minimum temperatures in your region, the environment you’re in, the precautions you take, your growing skills, the choice of strain, and much more. Having said that, you can easily grow cannabis in cold regions if you play your cards right. It may not be the ideal environment for your plant, as cannabis loves warm climates that are blessed with abundant sunshine. And just as you perform best in an environment that is right for you, marijuana plants behave in exactly the same way. If cannabis is forced to live constantly in low temperatures, its development will gradually slow down. Once the thermometer drops below 15°C, its metabolism will gradually decrease; enzymatic and biochemical processes won’t be carried out; vegetative vigour may also fail; and its root system may not expand as it should, preventing it from absorbing as many nutrients as usual. The result is a weak plant that grows slowly and produces poor harvests. Additionally, cannabis plants don’t usually tolerate frost very well. Temperatures below 0°C can severely damage their structure, especially the youngest leaves and tissues, causing necrosis (cell death) and drastically reducing their ability to grow and flower. Therefore, to get the best results, especially in regions with freezing temperatures, it is advisable to grow cannabis indoors during the coldest months of the year. But in other warmer regions, you can easily manage using greenhouses, protective tunnels, or insulating mulch. You can even find growers growing autoflowering cannabis outdoors in Scandinavian areas, in even the coldest temperatures. Therefore, you must find out which method works best for you. And, to achieve this, you must start by choosing the best type of seed for your grow.

What type of strain should I choose for cold climates?

An obvious choice when selecting genetics that are resistant to adverse weather conditions are autoflowering strains, such as Auto Polar Gelato, Auto Tropicana Cookies, or Amnesia Auto. Thanks to their ruderalis lineage, which originates from regions like Siberia (where cannabis adapted to the adverse climate and different lengths of day and night), automatic plants are hardier and don’t depend on the photoperiod. In other words, they don’t have to wait for the days to become shorter to start flowering, so you can choose the 2 - 3 warmest months of the year for your grow: You can plant them in early summer and harvest them in early September, before it gets too cold and rainy, so you can harness the power of the sun in the months with the highest sunshine. The varieties known as ‘Fast’, ‘Early’, or ‘Fast Flowering’, with examples such as Early Top Skunk, Purple Punch Fast, or Critical Poison Fast, are also an innovative solution for growers looking to deal with low temperatures without sacrificing the quality of their crops. By crossing autoflowerings with photo-dependent plants, it was found that the new strains were still photo-dependent but with a faster flowering cycle of 6 - 7 weeks (i.e., 1 or 2 weeks faster than that of their conventional counterparts), which is a great advantage for cannabis growers in regions with short summers. You can also opt for feminised or regular strains, which are the ones that the majority of growers prefer because they produce a higher yield. Some of these varieties are highly resistant to cold and also have a fast flowering cycle, which can help reduce the risk of frost damage. If you don’t know the time of harvest outdoors, look to see how many weeks it takes for your plants to flower indoors: between 7 and 8 weeks is a good number, whereas 9 to 10, or more, means that the specific strain isn’t as suitable for harsh climates.

Other factors that influence the choice of seeds for cold climates

In addition to the type of seed and its flowering times, you also need to pay attention to other factors when looking for the best cannabis seeds for cold climates:

Genetics and adaptation

Always choose a genetic lineage that includes strains that evolved in harsher weather conditions, making them less susceptible to cold stress. For instance, Hindu Kush is native to the mountainous region between Pakistan and Afghanistan, an area known for its harsh climate. Some strains were also developed specifically for mountainous or northern regions, such as Nepal Gold or the Scandinavian genetics, which are better adapted to withstand low temperatures. Therefore, they are excellent for tolerating strong winds or severe thermal drops during the night.

Resistance to fungi and disease

Cold, when combined with frequent humidity, can increase the risk of diseases such as mould, botrytis (grey rot), or powdery mildew. It is crucial to choose varieties that have natural resistance to these diseases, such as Critical + 2.0 or Auto Fat Blueberry. It also helps to choose varieties with well-spaced, airy buds that can keep these annoying guests at bay in high humidity conditions.

Indica dominance

The compact and robust structure of indica strains is one of their main advantages for cold climates. These plants tend to grow shorter and with densely populated branches, which helps protect them from winds that could damage more slender varieties. And this dense foliage not only contributes to their leafy appearance, but also acts as a natural heat insulation layer.

Great resin production

The dense and resinous buds that some genetics produce not only contribute to their potency but also offer some protection against cold and humidity. Cannabis trichomes exist to protect the plant from environmental hazards such as cold, pests, or strong ultraviolet rays. Therefore, you can take advantage of the low temperatures to increase resin production using the plants’ reaction to stress. As a result, your harvest will be tastier, more potent, and of much higher quality.

Genetic stability

If you grow cannabis in an ideal environment, such as a controlled grow room, the strain’s phenotype will be fully expressed. But if you don’t have a stable variety, then it’s quite a different story. For example, genetics like Northern Lights, White Widow, or Afghan Skunk are known especially for their incredible yielding capacity even in cold temperatures. They derive from a robust genetic line that has been bred and refined over a long period, helping to ensure a consistent quality.

Purple strains

Another good reason to grow marijuana in cold climates is that you can get to witness the vibrant colours of the purple and blue varieties, such as Purple Kush or Gelato #33, which take on deeper tones when the cold is more intense. Exposure to low temperatures can induce oxidative stress in the plants, leading to an increase in the expression of genes associated with anthocyanin synthesis. This positive regulation results in a greater accumulation of these pigments, which work similarly to an antifreeze to safeguard cellular integrity, and which also cause an intensification in the colouring, with magnificent tones seen in the last weeks of flowering.

As you can see, growing cannabis in cold climates is not only possible, but can also be rewarding and even visually dazzling, provided you choose the right seeds and adopt the correct growing practices. Prioritise hardy and stable genetics that are adapted to cold temperatures and have a fast flowering cycle; and use a greenhouse, thermal covers, or mulching to optimise the growing conditions. With these strategies, you will maximise your chances of harvesting quality buds even in the most challenging situations. Good luck with your next grow and stay warm out there!

Feminised or Autoflowering seeds?

Feminised or autoflowering seeds: What’s the best option for you?

Although choosing your cannabis strains from the wide range of genetics available may seem extremely complicated, knowing what your needs are will help you make the right decision. And one of the first steps is choosing between feminised and autoflowering seeds. In this post, we explain the differences between them to help you see which one is best suited to your grow.

What are feminised seeds?

Feminised seeds are genetics designed to produce exclusively female cannabis plants. Before the arrival of feminised strains, growers used to use regular seeds – these are still used today for some purposes, but they’re not as efficient as feminised varieties when the ultimate goal is to harvest seedless buds. It’s just a question of functionality: using feminised cannabis plants means that growers no longer need to be careful to discard the males, which saves time and space. Feminised strains depend on the number of hours of light that they receive to start flowering. Both indoors and outdoors, these varieties will remain in their growing phase as long as they’re exposed to more hours of light than hours of darkness (for example 18/6). They will then begin to flower when the light cycle is changed to 12/12 indoors, or when the days start to get shorter outdoors.

Advantages of feminised cannabis seeds

Control of plant size with the light cycle: As these strains are photo-dependent (they depend on the photoperiod to start flowering), you can easily control the size of your plants. If you grow indoors, just keep your lights on for 18 hours a day, followed by 6 hours of darkness. In outdoor grows, you can control the size of your plants by simply germinating your seeds earlier (April - May) or later (June - early July), weather permitting.
Yielding capacity: Controlling the size of your cannabis plants will allow you to grow real trees in true American style (if that’s what you’re after) so your yield will be larger, providing you have enough space.
You can implement pruning and training techniques like SCROG, LST, etc.

Disadvantages of feminised cannabis seeds

The light cycle needs to be controlled: In indoor grows, it is essential to adjust the hours of light and darkness to promote the flowering. In outdoor grows, light pollution during the hours of darkness (lamp posts, neighbours’ lights, etc.), can disrupt the flowering.
Longer growth cycle: Although they deliver a heavier yield, the life cycle of feminised seeds is longer than that of autoflowerings (especially outdoors), which can be an inconvenience for those looking for quick results.

What are autoflowering seeds?

Autoflowering seeds were developed from a ruderalis strain native to Siberia that adapted to the cold climate and short summers of the region. The main characteristic of autoflowering varieties is that they don’t depend on the amount of light that they receive to start flowering – they do so automatically around the fourth or fifth week of life. This type of genetics will be ideal for you if you’re looking to harvest in record time.

Advantages of autoflowering cannabis seeds

Speed: Automatic strains are ideal for fast growth cycles, especially outdoors and in areas with cold climates and short summers.
Ease of cultivation: The hours of light that the plants are exposed to don’t need to be controlled, so they’re a great choice for rookies.
Discretion: Autoflowerings have a limited life span, so their vegetative period is reduced. Therefore, the final size of the plants is usually smaller than that of feminised seeds. This feature facilitates cultivation in reduced spaces, such as terraces and balconies.
Life cycle: Autoflowers complete their life cycle (from germination to harvest) between approximately 8 and 11 weeks, depending on the variety. This gives you the possibility to grow several crops within the same season.
Reduced risk of pests and fungi: As their life cycle is shorter, they are less likely to contract diseases, pests, or fungi.

Disadvantages of autoflowering cannabis seeds

Lower yielding capacity: Generally speaking, autoflowering plants produce less buds than their feminised counterparts because their short life cycle doesn’t allow them to grow as much.
Lower margin of error: Since they don’t depend on the light cycle to flower, any mistake in their growing process will be extremely costly. Unlike feminised strains, whose vegetative period can be as long as you like indoors (and also tends to be longer outdoors), autos have a limited lifetime from the moment they germinate. Therefore, this will make it harder for the plants to recover from any problems that may arise to successfully deliver a bountiful harvest.
Pruning or training techniques aren’t recommended: These plants don’t have a vegetative period long enough for these practices to be effective.

There are a number of common mistakes that can be made when growing autoflowering seeds. Here are some top tips to avoid falling into them:

Don’t do any transplanting: Plants could become stressed and stop growing. Place the seedlings in their final pots from the beginning.
Don’t saturate the substrate with water: This mistake is quite common. Autoflowering strains are especially sensitive to overwatering since their roots may stop absorbing nutrients and their growth could be halted. Try to water less but more frequently, especially during the first 3 weeks of life.
Use a more aerated substrate: than usual so that the plants can accelerate their metabolic processes and thereby make the most of every day of their short life.

Feminised or autoflowering: What type of seed is best for you?

The choice between autoflowering and feminised seeds depends on your objectives, experience, and growing conditions.

Autoflowering seeds are for you if…

You need fast results.
You live in a cold region with short summers, where the bad autumn weather arrives early.
You want to reduce the risk of pests, fungi, and diseases.
You only have a reduced growing area, such as a balcony, a terrace, or a generous sized window.
You’re looking for discretion. Autoflowering strains are ideal for urban growers.
You don’t want to be keeping an eye on the photoperiod indoors, or you’re unable to avoid light pollution outdoors.
You want to have several growth cycles during the outdoor season.

Feminised seeds are for you if…

You’re looking for a huge yield.
You want greater control over the size of your plants.
You’d like to apply pruning or training methods to maximise your yields.
You’re going to grow indoors. Although autoflowering genetics can also be grown indoors, they require a cycle of 20 hours of light and 4 hours of darkness (throughout the whole cycle) for optimal results. Therefore, they might not be the most efficient choice when it comes to saving energy and money on the electricity bill.
You’re an advanced grower and you want maximum control over the growth cycle – with feminised seeds, you can customise the growing process as you wish and take full advantage of the space and resources.

Conclusion

In the wide expanse of the cannabis universe, there isn’t any one format that’s better than the others – it’s just a matter of choosing those seeds that meet your needs and help maximise your growing experience. If you’re ready to start or want to explore your options, visit our Linda Seeds catalogue, and discover the perfect strain for your next grow.

Cannabis Seed Storage Guide: Preserve Your Precious Varieties

How to store your cannabis seeds efficiently?

Storing cannabis seeds is a crucial step for every grower, from novice to expert. To preserve the genetics and quality of your seeds, it's essential to know good storage practices. In this article, we'll explore in detail how to store your cannabis seeds effectively. Whether you're an enthusiastic amateur, an avid grower, or a discerning consumer, these tips will help you maintain the viability and quality of your seeds.

Why is storage essential?

The effective storage of cannabis seeds is a fundamental aspect of cannabis cultivation. It's based on sound scientific principles and biological knowledge. To understand why conservation is so essential, we need to delve into the mechanisms that govern seed viability.

Water dynamics

Cannabis seeds are living organisms, and their viability depends on a number of factors. One of the most important is water. Seeds contain a small amount of water, which is essential for triggering the germination process. However, prolonged exposure to humidity can lead to seed rot and loss of viability.

The impact of light and temperature

Light is another factor to consider. The UV rays contained in sunlight can damage seeds by altering their molecular structure. This is why we recommend storing seeds in opaque containers to protect them from light.

Temperature also plays a critical role. Temperatures that are too high can deactivate the enzymes needed for germination, while temperatures that are too low can slow down the seeds' metabolism, preventing them from germinating properly.

By understanding these principles, you can appreciate why effective seed storage is essential. It maintains a delicate balance between these factors to ensure that seeds remain in perfect condition until you're ready to grow them. The following section will provide you with details on how to apply this knowledge in the practical storage of your cannabis seeds.

Materials needed for storage

Effective cannabis seed storage requires the right equipment and an understanding of the scientific factors involved.

Storing seeds

Airtight storage containers

The choice of storage containers is crucial. Opt for glass jars or airtight plastic boxes. These containers must be airtight to prevent moisture from penetrating. The presence of water can cause seeds to germinate prematurely or mould. Opaque containers offer additional protection against UV rays, which can damage seeds.

Labeling and management

Organized management is essential. Label each container with the variety name, storage date and other relevant information. This makes it easier to manage your collection and quickly locate the seeds you need for your crops. Clear marking is an essential habit for any serious grower.

The importance of a hygrometer

For accurate storage, a hygrometer is an essential tool. This instrument measures the relative humidity in your storage containers. It allows you to monitor and adjust humidity to maintain an optimal environment for your seeds. With a hygrometer, you can prevent mold and ensure the long-term viability of your seeds.

Steps to efficient seed storage

Effective cannabis seed storage is a delicate process that relies on a thorough understanding of seed biology. To ensure long-term viability, follow these essential steps.

Seed preparation

Before storing seeds, make sure they are completely dry. Residual moisture can cause mildew. To dry the seeds, place them on a paper towel tray in a cool, dry place. Once completely dry, transfer them to airtight containers.

Humidity and temperature management

Precise control of humidity and temperature is essential. Maintain a relative humidity of 5-10% to avoid premature germination. Temperature should be maintained between 5 and 7 degrees Celsius. Higher temperatures can deactivate the enzymes needed for germination, while lower temperatures slow down seed metabolism.

The importance of freezing

For long-term storage, freezing is an option. However, it must be done with care. Place seeds in an airtight container to prevent frost from forming. Make sure the temperature remains stable during freezing and thawing. We also strongly recommend vacuum-sealing the seeds if you want to freeze them long-term.

Seeds in plastic packages Seeds in plastic pack from Linda

Monitor and adjust

Monitor your storage containers regularly. Use a hygrometer to measure relative humidity. If necessary, adjust humidity levels by adding or removing desiccants. Keep an eye on temperature to maintain a stable environment.

Long-term storage

For those looking to store their cannabis seeds over an extended period, freezing is an option to consider. However, this method requires a thorough understanding of seed biology and a precise procedure. In this case, it makes more than sense to vacuum pack the seeds to avoid any losses.

Controlled freezing

Freezing can maintain seed viability for many years, even decades, if carried out correctly. However, it is essential to control every aspect of this process. Place the seeds in an airtight container, distributing them evenly. Ensure that the temperature remains stable during freezing, around -20 degrees Celsius.

Avoid frost formation

Frost can irreversibly damage seeds. To avoid this, make sure the container is airtight and the seeds are completely dry before freezing. Vacuum packaging prevents the smallest traces of frost from setting in. When defrosting, avoid handling the seeds until they have reached room temperature.

Using liquid nitrogen

Some professional growers opt to use liquid nitrogen for long-term preservation. This method is reserved for experts, as it requires delicate handling of cryogenic substances.

Long-term preservation requires careful attention to detail to ensure that your seeds remain viable for many years to come. The following section will provide you with further tips on how to avoid common storage mistakes and maintain the quality of your seeds over the long term.

Seeds in a can

Tips and mistakes to avoid

Storing cannabis seeds can be tricky, and even small mistakes can have a significant impact on long-term viability. Here are some common tips and mistakes to consider.

Limit container opening

Every time you open a container, the seeds are exposed to air and moisture, which can dry out or contaminate them. Open containers only when you're ready to use the seeds. Avoid frequent inspection, as this increases the risk of contamination.

Use desiccants

To control humidity, you can add desiccants such as silica gel to storage containers. These agents absorb excess moisture, maintaining an optimal level for storage. Be sure to use desiccants designed for this purpose.

Avoid contamination

Contamination of seeds can lead to mold and mildew problems. When handling seeds, make sure your hands and the tools you use are clean. Avoid touching seeds with dirty fingers.

Label correctly

Incorrect labelling can lead to confusion or loss of track of your varieties. Use clear labels with the variety name, storage date and other relevant information. Make sure the label ink is water-resistant.

Seed cellar storage

For serious seed collectors, investing in a seed cellar may be an option. These controlled spaces offer optimal storage conditions in terms of humidity, temperature and protection from light. They are particularly useful for those with large collections of precious seeds.

In conclusion, the effective conservation of your cannabis seeds is a key element for any amateur, enthusiast or knowledgeable grower. Understanding the underlying scientific principles, choosing the right equipment, managing humidity and temperature, and avoiding common mistakes are all crucial steps in ensuring that your seeds remain viable and ready to germinate when you need them.

At Linda Seeds, we understand the importance of your precious seeds. That's why we're committed to providing high-quality varieties to enrich your collection. Our genetics experts work tirelessly to bring you the very best in cannabis genetic diversity. Please visit our online store to explore our selection of premium cannabis seeds.

Best wishes to you and your precious seeds, and see you soon at Linda Seeds!

SCROG Method: Maximize Your Cannabis Yield

Want to take your cannabis cultivation to the next level and get the highest yield? Enter the exciting world of Screen of Green and learn how to efficiently create your green paradise using the scrogging technique. Let's get the most out of your grow together!

What is scrogging and how does Screen of Green work?

You've probably heard of scrogging during your career as a cannabis enthusiast, right? If you're into cannabis cultivation, you'll come across the word "scrog" a lot. It stands for "Screen of Green", a particular technique of cultivation that involves using a so-called scrog net to extract a higher yield from your plants indoors.

A similar method is the Sea of Green technique. The goal is the same: to get a higher yield per square meter during your grow.

Who comes out on top in "sog vs. scrog" always depends on the grower's situation.

One thing is for sure: Both methods are not for beginners!

Here you will first learn the most important details about scrogging and how it can help you take your yield to the next level.

Scrogging, also known as Screen of Green, is often used synonymously and describes a method where a net or grid (called "SCROG net") is stretched between your cannabis plants and their light source. With this net you make sure that all shoots grow the same length. Furthermore, through the net, all your cuties will get an equal amount of light. Instead of a single main shoot, as in standard grow, scroggening creates a multitude of colas. Cola is a botanical term that defines the flowering site of a female cannabis plant.

This method is especially effective if you have a small number of plants, as you increase the chance of a high-yielding grow.

One of the key techniques in scrogging for cannabis is "topping". This is a kind of training for the plant, where you prune the main shoot of your cuties to encourage the formation of several side shoots. You can then topping the two new main shoots again to get four main shoots and so on.

This technique is so useful in combination with the ScrOG method because it helps to evenly distribute plant growth across the ScrOG network. Topping encourages the plant to produce more side shoots, which can then be passed through the ScrOG net, resulting in a more even distribution of light and thus more yield.

Be sure to do topping late in the growing season. This means less stress for your plants. Also, by then most of the shoots should have already grown through the net, so you won't have any problems with interlacing.

Another well-known method is the so-called "lollipopping". Here you remove all shoots and leaves below the net during the first weeks of flowering. This way, your sweethearts will fully concentrate on forming flowers and making the best use of the available light.

Although the scrog technique is mainly used for indoor growing, you can also use the method outdoors. However, with outdoor scrog, you'll have to take into account some additional factors, such as weather conditions and animal damage. Still, it can be an effective way to maximize the growth of your plants and increase your yield.

Of course, you're eager to know the approximate yield per plant indoors. It's hard to make that general statement. The final yield depends on a variety of factors, such as the quality of the seeds, the type of care and the environment.

Cannabis plantation

Advantages and disadvantages of the scrogging method

To give you a better overview, we have listed the advantages and disadvantages of the method.

Advantages of the scrogging method

Optimal light distribution: The even height of the shoots in the SCROG method ensures that the light is optimally distributed. Thus, all your sweethearts have a chance to receive an even amount of light.

Increased yield: Scrogging can increase the yield per plant. The even light distribution and the training of the plants by topping and lollipopping contribute significantly to this.

Efficient use of space: SCROG netting allows you to use space efficiently by growing plants horizontally. This is especially useful in smaller growing spaces such as closets or storage rooms, with little floor space.

Better control: Scroggen gives you better control over the development of your plants. You can actively intervene to control and optimize growth.

Disadvantages of the scrogging method

Time investment: The SCROG method requires a lot of attention, patience and time investment. Weaving the shoots into the net and plant care during the growth process are activities that eat up a lot of time.

Difficult to handle: Scrogging requires some skill and care. The process of weaving the shoots into the net can be difficult and tedious. Therefore, if you're a beginner, avoid the scrog method.

Stress on the plants: The various techniques of scrogging, such as topping and lollipopping, can cause stress to the plants. So if you're not careful here, you can potentially hurt your loved ones.

Only suitable for certain strains: Not all cannabis strains are suitable for scrogging. Photoperiod strains give much better results than autoflowering strains. Strains with strong stretch, i.e. strains that grow taller and more sparse, are better for scrogging.

Now you know the pros and cons of this method. But that's not quite enough for a successful scrog grow. So what about cannabis seeds for scrog growing? Which ones are eligible, and which ones are not?

Choosing the right seeds for scrogging

Choosing the right seeds is a critical factor in the success of your scrog grow. Generally, seeds from cannabis strains that have a pronounced side shoot formation and respond well to training are suitable.

Indica-dominant strains are often ideal for scrogging, as they usually grow bushy and produce a high number of side branches. Sativa-dominant strains can also be used, but often require more intensive training and management.

Note that autoflowering cannabis seeds tend to be less suitable for scrog cultivation due to their fast growth and short lifespan. Control is difficult and the plants do not like the net. Therefore, as a beginner, it makes more sense for you to start with photoperiod varieties.

Ultimately, the choice of scrog growing seeds depends on your individual preferences and goals. However, with the right scrog growing seeds and with careful care, you can reap the full benefits of scrogging.

Which cannabis strains are best?

Cultivating multiple seeds when growing scrog in the same scrog system allows for a variety of flowers. Choose strains with similar heights to minimize the effort.

We can recommend Green Gelato. It is known for its easy maintenance, dense flowering, and unique terpene profile. Her minimal leaf formation and dense flower clusters are perfect for the scrog method.

Otherwise, OG Kush would be a good choice. Her nodes have enough spacing, which makes her ideal for scrogging. Multiple toppings allow each location to reach its full potential and truly create an entire carpet of Kush. This strain produces uniformly large and dense buds, requires little maintenance, and delivers a high yield - perfect for scrogging!

Cannabis plant

Green Gelato by Roayl Queen Seeds

Here is a useful Scrog guide

A scrog net is the linchpin of scrogging. It provides even exposure for plants, improves air circulation, and provides structure for branches.

How to use the scrog net properly

Be sure to stretch the grow net properly. Arrange the branches so that they can easily intertwine with neighboring plants.

Hang your light source at a height that is sufficient for the light to be evenly distributed over the net.

The distance between the net and the plant should be 20 cm starting from the base of your plants. Start scrogging as soon as your cuties come into contact with the net.

Weaving the shoots into the net is a method of low stress training (LST). You carefully weave the shoots into the net, ensuring horizontal growth.

Important: Remember to do the process gently so as not to injure the plant and avoid unnecessary stress!

On the subject of watering: it is advisable to install a drip irrigation system or use a watering wand, this makes watering much easier and is not as time-consuming as using a watering can.

Remember, however, that drip irrigation is unsuitable if you fertilize organically!

Watch the natural growth of the branches to force your loved ones in one direction as little as possible. Each square of netting should ideally accommodate a single branch. After scrogging, plants might appear stressed, but recover quickly with adequate light and water. Readjusting the net after 2-3 days will help ensure optimal results.

Note: It is critical that you switch to a 12/12 light cycle to send the plants into bloom. However, don't do this until your net or grid is almost completely filled!

Here's a list of paraphernalia to help you get the most out of your scrogg:

Scrog net
Scissors (preferably special harvesting scissors)
Disposable gloves
Plant binder
Pots

If you need the right utensils for your next grow, feel free to stop by our grow store.

Low stress training

Low strees training (LTS) method

Germinate cannabis seeds: Comprehensive guide

In the beginning is the germination. For any cannabis cultivation, the cannabis seeds must be germinated at the beginning. There are different methods for this, each of which has advantages and disadvantages and is more or less suitable for beginners. In this text you will learn what you need to successfully germinate your weed seeds. The methods are presented one by one and described in detail. Also about said advantages and disadvantages you will learn everything worth knowing in this text.

It is important not to make any mistakes when germinating cannabis seeds, as this lays the foundation for the later development of the plant. Mistakes in germination can in the worst case negatively affect the size of the later plant or even ensure that your project fails right at the beginning, if the cannabis seeds do not germinate at all. In addition to the correct methodology, the most important thing is to create the ideal conditions for the germination of the seeds. These conditions are similar for all methods. For seeds need a humid, warm (but not too hot) and dark environment to start the germination process. Also, the quality of the seeds matters. You should always use high-quality seeds from established seed banks to increase your success rate. Ultimately, however, it is always possible that individual seeds will not germinate, regardless of the conditions and your abilities. Don't let this discourage you, because it's natural - after all, this is organic material you're working with. However, don't worry too much about the quality. The seeds from the growers available in our store always have a germination rate between 90 and 100%.

These are the methods to germinate cannabis seeds

Before covering the methods in detail, here's an overview of the existing methods. Cannabis seeds can germinate in kitchen paper or in water. But germinating cannabis seeds directly in the soil is also feasible. Another popular method is germination in jiffies or so-called peat swell balls / peat swell pots. Regardless of the medium in which you germinate the cannabis seeds, however, there are a few things to keep in mind. Follow our instructions to germinate your cannabis seeds.

Cannabis is a dark seedling, so it doesn't need direct light exposure to start the germination process. The temperature of the medium in which you germinate the cannabis seeds should be between 20 and 25 degrees. At higher or lower temperatures, there is a risk that the seeds will not sprout. Optimal is 24 degrees. Furthermore, the humidity is crucial. Only when the seeds are supplied with sufficient moisture, they initiate the germination process. Therefore, you should regularly check the moisture content of the germination medium and add new water if necessary. Germination usually takes only a few days. After 5 to 10 days at the latest, seedlings should have developed from the seeds. However, sometimes there are outliers that do take longer and germinate only after two or three weeks. The process can not be accelerated, but the better the required conditions are met, the earlier germination should occur.

Germinate hemp seeds in kitchen paper

For the first method of germinating hemp seeds, use kitchen paper. This involves placing a sheet of kitchen paper on a straight surface, on which the seeds are placed a few centimeters apart from each other. Then a second sheet is placed over it as a cover. Now it is important to keep both cloths moist at all times. However, they should also not be so wet that drops form. After a few days, the seeds should have opened and developed about 2 to 3 mm long root tips, they are ready to be inserted into the soil. To do this, for example, with your finger, or even better with tweezers, drill holes 5 to 10 mm deep in the soil and gently place the seedlings inside. When doing this, make sure that the root should be directed downwards and the casing of the seed should point towards the surface of the soil. The advantage of this method is that you need nothing more than kitchen paper. Besides, you can always control the development of the seeds by covering the upper sheet of kitchen paper. The disadvantage is that you have to handle and plant the very young seedlings. If you do not handle them carefully enough, they can be damaged, which can affect their later development or even cause them to die. Instead of kitchen paper, other similar materials can be used, such as cotton swabs or otherwise absorbent paper.

The water glass method - germinating cannabis seeds in water.

Another method to germinate your seeds is the water glass method. As you guessed correctly, this involves placing the seeds in a glass filled with water to germinate. The water should have a temperature of 22-24 degrees Celsius. Warmer water contains less oxygen, which can cause germination to fail. After two to three days, the seeds should open and small root tips should emerge. As with the kitchen paper method, they are ready for planting once the roots reach a length of 2 to 3 mm. When removing the seeds from the jar, you should be extremely careful and not use your fingers. A pair of tweezers or a sterile spoon is suitable for this purpose. Planting is done in the same way as described above. In a way, this method is very convenient, but it is not very efficient. The risk that some seeds will not germinate here is the highest. Opinions differ as to whether the water jar should be in the light or in the dark. Ultimately, however, both should be possible. Timing is also important. If the seeds remain in the water too long, the seedling will be damaged and die.

Germinating cannabis seeds in the soil

You can also plant your cannabis seeds directly into the soil. This has the advantage that you do not have to touch the young seedlings again. This eliminates a potential source of damage. Fill your pots with sterilized growing soil and add water so that the soil is well moist. Then, using your finger or tweezers, drill a hole 5 to 10 mm deep and carefully place the seed inside. Cover the seed loosely with soil and make sure the soil does not dry out over the next few days. For this, it can be helpful to cover the plant pot with plastic wrap, but it should have some holes for ventilation. You can poke these holes in the foil with a toothpick, for example. This keeps the moisture in the soil longer. After about 4 to 10 days you should see the result in the form of a small seedling breaking through the soil to the surface. Continue to provide a humid climate and after a few more days you can transplant the seedling including the surrounding soil into a larger pot.

This method has the advantage that the seedlings are hardly exposed to stress during their first days. However, you will have to be patient a little longer to observe the results of your seeds. But in general, this method has very good chances of success if you keep the soil nice and moist.

Germinating hemp seeds in rockwool

A professional medium to germinate hemp seeds is rockwool. This is thin threads of solidified volcanic magma. For cultivation, rock wool blocks are available in different sizes. This variant is especially recommended if you want to grow later in hydroponics, whatever kind. Rockwool does not contain any nutrients, so it must be prepared before it is used for germination and growing. In other words, a special, light fertilizer solution must be prepared. You need to adjust the pH and EC (conductivity) value of the solution and soak the rockwool in it. The EC value of rockwool is neutral, which means that the nutrient supply can be controlled very precisely. Rockwool has a natural pH of 7-8, which you should lower to 5.5. You can achieve this by soaking the rockwool in pH adjusted water. Then you should administer a fertilizer solution with a TDS of 600 per million.

Now, using a pointed knife or tweezers, drill a small hole in the wool block and insert the seed so deep that you can't see it. From now on, it is a matter of keeping the humidity of the rockwool constant. This is best done in a closed container, such as a bowl covered with plastic wrap (again, make small holes with a toothpick) or an indoor greenhouse. However, make sure to air the container once a day.

With this method, very good results can be achieved, but it is more suitable for advanced growers, because on the one hand you need some equipment and on the other hand a certain knowledge of how to handle it, moreover, the necessary measuring devices are expensive to buy.

A disadvantage of rockwool is that its production requires a lot of energy and thus pollutes the environment.

Germinating cannabis seeds in jiffy / peat pots

Another popular and for beginners the safest method to germinate your cannabis seeds is the use of so-called Jiffys or peat pots. These are small plates surrounded by a net, filled with peat (recently also with coco), fertilizer and minerals and sterilized. Put them in water so they can soak up moisture and expand into a small cylinder. Then press the seed into the opening at the top about 4-8 mm deep into the substrate. Now store the jiffy swell pot at the ideal temperature if possible and in a container that prevents moisture from escaping, such as a mini-greenhouse for growing plants. After a few days a small seedling should rise to the surface and a little later the first roots will penetrate the outer net of the peat well ball, usually this happens at the bottom first. Now you can move the seedling together with the jiffy into a larger pot. Be careful with the young plant and do not overwater the soil in the beginning, because the Jiffy retains moisture for a long time.

This method offers very good success rates and is easy to practice. Thanks to the high nutrient content of the jiffy, the roots develop quickly and quickly become strong. The disadvantage is that you have to buy Jiffys for this, however, you can order them easily and cheaply on the Internet, for example, at Linda Seeds:

Common beginner mistakes when germinating cannabis seeds

Even though most of the methods presented are relatively straightforward, they harbor many sources of potential mistakes. As mentioned at the outset, it is exceedingly important that the temperature does not fall below or exceed the limits mentioned. But temperature fluctuations should, at best, be avoided altogether. This is best achieved with the use of a heating mat and by positioning the seeds in a place that is not exposed to large temperature fluctuations. For example, a storage room or a larger built-in cupboard is suitable for this.

Furthermore, it is important to maintain the correct humidity of the germination medium. While it is central to not let the medium dry out, too much humidity can also affect the germination of your cannabis seeds and cause a fungal infection. Your substrate (if you're using a method other than the water glass method) should only be well moist, but never dripping wet. When in doubt, familiarize yourself with how much water your substrate can handle before planting the seeds.

Another source of error is transplanting the seeds. The root tips have microscopic hairs that you can easily injure if you touch the seedlings with your fingers. Therefore, it is better to use tweezers and touch the seedlings only on the hard shell of the seed. Do not squeeze too hard, otherwise the seed may break and the necessary protection of the young plant is lost. So a delicate touch is required! Finally, you should hold back on fertilizing. All common growing media except rockwool carry enough nutrients for the first days. Therefore, you should not add fertilizer, as it will harm rather than help the seedlings. You should also hold back with the lighting in the beginning. In the seedling stage it is sufficient to use a small fluorescent lamp. Only when the plants form the first serrated leaves, you should switch to a more potent lamp. Otherwise you will achieve the opposite and the young plants will suffer a light shock, stop growing and die.

And finally, above all, you need patience. Give your seeds the time they need to germinate. Constantly checking to see if anything has sprouted yet can be detrimental to the germination process. You can find everything you need for successful and uncomplicated growing in the online store of Linda Seeds. All beginnings are difficult, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating! Good luck!

A lot of movement despite adverse circumstances - cannabis growers in the 90s

Although cannabis has been known to mankind for thousands of years, it was mainly the recent decades that brought about a different social approach to the plant. After cannabis had enjoyed increasing popularity since the hippie movement in the 1960s and 1970s, the political and social framework has also increasingly changed since the 1990s. This article reviews the most significant players and the evolution of the major seed banks and strains, without which the diversity of today's cannabis supply would be unthinkable.

The Climate is Changing

Movies like Reefers Madness are entertaining in showing how uptight cannabis has been for a long time. While weed was demonized for most of the 20th century, a sudden shift in thinking, so to speak, took place starting in the 1990s. The reasons for this are many and complex, but among the most important are, on the one hand, the medical use of cannabis, the first considerations regarding legalization, and the emergence of an industry and with it the recognition of a great economic potential.

Increasing scientific consideration of the subject helped to draw a realistic picture of cannabis use and its classification, for example, in comparison with the use of other drugs such as alcohol or tobacco. In addition, such scientific research has made it clear how many people are already using cannabis anyway.

Medical use and decriminalization

Various clinical studies have investigated the medical potential of cannabis, and prescription use was introduced in California, for example, as early as the mid-1990s. Nevertheless, the pressure to prosecute recreational users was still enormous. Other countries were also considering medical legalization or even legalization for recreational use. In Canada, Spain and Australia, a new approach to cannabis and other drugs was being discussed. However, this has not yet led to large-scale legalization; only reforms have been sought. In Holland, in particular, cannabis was decriminalized as early as the 1970s. The possession of small amounts was no longer prosecuted and the establishment of coffee shops where cannabis could be bought and consumed was tolerated. However, cultivation of larger quantities of cannabis remained illegal, leading to a procurement paradox for coffee shops and the so-called backdoor issue: cannabis could be sold legally in the front. How it got into the coffee shop or where the weed and hashish was sourced from was ignored. Accordingly, a productive black market developed, which supplied the coffeeshops and still does today - with all the disadvantages, such as violent, organized crime, which actually does not fit the scene of cannabis lovers at all.

USA strains in Holland - a perfect breeding ground

In Spain, too, there has been a more liberal approach to cannabis since the 1990s. Smaller quantities for personal use were usually no longer prosecuted and cultivation for personal use as well as consumption in private rooms was tolerated. The last decade has also seen the emergence of cannabis social clubs, associations in which members work together to grow plants for personal use.

Through this movement, coming into a field illegalized during a long time, new opportunities arose. For the production of medicinal cannabis, some growers were able to work in better conditions than before. This initially led to some milestones in cannabis breeding, especially in North America. Throughout the 90's, such new raw cultivars were smuggled from North America to Holland, because in the USA the pressure of prosecution for recreational use was still very high. Thus, a USA - Amsterdam connection of a special kind developed. American growers and cannabis enthusiasts relocated to Amsterdam, finding the perfect infrastructure to further develop their strains. Probably the most prominent example of this is Dave Watson aka Sam the Skunkman. Watson was arrested for cannabis cultivation in California in the 80s. A short time later, he left for Holland - allegedly with a whole suitcase full of smuggled seeds. Among other things, he had Skunk #1 in his luggage, which laid the foundation for many crosses of the 90s and won the first Cannabis Cup in 1988. In the following years, the Cup was won by many strains that today enjoy cult status. These include Northern Lights, Early Pearl, Haze, Jack Herer, White Widow, Peace Maker and Super Silver Haze.

Amsterdam - the breeders' place of desire

Due to the already then legally special situation in the Netherlands, some top-class seed banks emerged there. Ambitious cannabis seed growers from all over the world flocked to Amsterdam, quickly turning the city into a fertile breeding ground for cannabis innovation. This development was further fueled by the knowledge that existed in Holland about growing plants under artificial light. Some of the most famous brands that emerged during this period include Sensi Seeds, Dutch Passion, Green House Seeds, Serious Seeds and Positronics. All of these seed banks have actually managed to survive to this day. The exception to this is Positronics, which was revived in Spain in cooperation with the original founder Wernand Bruining, after suffering a sad decline and going bankrupt in Amsterdam many years earlier. In addition, however, there were many others that did important work at the time but later stopped. Besides Cultivator's Choice, Free City and The Seed Bank of Holland should be mentioned. The latter was founded by Nevil Shoenmakers, who created some of the most outstanding Haze strains. The Australian had also brought various genetics from his travels to Amsterdam and crossed them with high-quality sativas from the Caribbean region. After arriving in Amsterdam, he lived and worked with fellow friends in what was known as Cannabis Castle, a mansion that housed a sophisticated cannabis breeding laboratory. Nevil was part of the Super Sativa Seeds Club before founding the very Seed Bank of Holland that was later bought by Sensi Seeds.

Sensi Seeds was founded back in 1985 by Ben Dronkers. The following year, the seed bank of the same brand was opened and Sensi Seeds was renamed Sensi Seed Bank. The company is known on the one hand for commitment and funding of research around cannabis topics, and on the other hand for the outstanding strains the company has produced. These include the legendary Northern Lights, Jack Herer, Super Skunk, Big Bud and Silver Haze. But beyond that, there are many other strains for which Sensi Seeds still enjoys the reputation of being one of the most capable breeders around.

While Sensi Seeds is mostly celebrated for its dedication and iconic strains, Dutch Passion, also a Dutch seed bank, has many technical achievements to its credit. For example, they were the first to produce feminized seeds and were also instrumental in the creation of autoflowering strains later in the 2000s. Dutch Passion has produced popular strains such as Blueberry and Orange Bud.

Arjan Roskam and Scott Blakey are the founders of Green House Seeds, which is still very popular today. Blakey created unique and multiple award-winning strains such as White Widow or Super Silver Haze.

In addition to his dedication and restless research in cannabis genetics, Roskam is considered one of the pioneers of cannabis tourism. It was this business acumen that ultimately contributed to irreconcilable differences between Roskam and Blakey, which ultimately led to Blakey's exit. Blakey subsequently founded a new company, Mr. Nice Seedbank, with stoner celebrity and namesake Howard Marks (aka Mr. Nice), at times one of the world's top hash smugglers, who passed away in 2016 at the age of 70.

Roskam, on the other hand, was instrumental in shaping the concept of the Green House Coffee Shop, which attracted tourists and locals alike. Henk de Vries, the founder of the legendary Bulldog Coffee Shop, which quickly developed into a successful chain, should also be mentioned at this point. Of course, there are also numerous other personalities who played an important role in this very significant decade for cannabis growers. These include Simon Smit, who first worked for Sensi Seeds, helped found Cerebral Seeds, and eventually started his own company, Serious Seeds. They are all proof that a very special mix of individuals, visions and skills came together in Amsterdam in the 1990s, resulting in an enormously productive environment.

Ben Dronkers 1996, founder of Sensi Seeds

Foundation for future generations

With the confusing market situation today, it is easy to forget that many of the foundations were laid in the 90s by a small, sworn community under very difficult conditions, including temporary jail terms, discrimination and stigmatization. The varieties created then are still able to inspire and impress today, some thirty years later. Nor will these foundations cease to be relevant for future research and generations of breeders. Nor will they cease to be relevant for growers who still grow, consume and appreciate these varieties today.

Mexican magic mushrooms - ancient tradition

Today, magic mushrooms have a large number of fans and followers around the world. This was not always the case. In the 16th century, for example, hallucinogenic mushrooms were still completely unknown in Europe. The situation was different in North and Central America. In present-day Mexico and Guatemala, indigenous societies such as the Aztecs or the Mayas consumed psilocybin mushrooms in rituals and religious ceremonies. The intention could be to read the future or to cure an illness. Different mushrooms were used for ceremonies, which could vary according to the indigenous group or the region in which they lived. Some of these mushrooms are hardly found today, others have become popular classics among mushroom lovers. The monk Fray Bernardino de Sahagún was the first to describe the use of psychoactive mushrooms in his 16th century notes. He called the mushrooms "Teonanácatl", which means flesh of the gods in the indigenous Nahuatl language. However, the existence of magic mushrooms continued to be disputed in the following centuries and the Spanish inquisitors, especially the Catholic Church, tried to suppress the consumption of the mind-expanding mushrooms, so references and traces in written documents and other sources also disappeared.

It was not until the early 20th century that scientists (especially ethnobotanists) began to take an interest in mushrooms and their effects. Jean Bassett Johnson was the first Western scientist to observe a mushroom ritual. Amateur botanist Gordon Wasson traveled to Mexico with his wife in 1940 to participate in a ritual and consume the mushrooms himself. Some time later, Wasson traveled to Mexico again, accompanied by French scientist Roger Heim. The latter brought a sample of the mushrooms back to Europe and left it with none other than Albert Hoffmann, the discoverer of LSD. It was Hoffmann who first extracted the psychoactive ingredient from the mushrooms and named it psilocybin.

Great diversity

In Mexico alone there are about 50 different varieties of magic mushrooms. Among the best known are the Calva Mexicana, the Mexicana and the Mexicana Mazapatec. They all differ in optical details, but are nevertheless similar. Mushrooms grow in different regions and therefore have different conditions they need as a basis for life. Some grow on cow dung, others in shady wooded areas. However, they all need a rather humid environment in order to thrive. Since the seasons in Mexico can be divided mainly into dry and rainy, there is a season with good conditions for mushrooms and a season in which they cannot be found. The rainy season runs from May to October and creates good conditions for mushrooms to grow.

Ways of consumption

In Mexico, magic mushrooms are usually consumed fresh. However, as this is only possible in the right season, there are various techniques for preserving mushrooms.

One possibility is to freeze fresh mushrooms. In this way, they can be thawed again when needed, but then they must be consumed quickly. Another common preservation technique is to dry mushrooms. This makes them much lighter and, consequently, they contain more active ingredient compared to their weight. Finally, some mushrooms are also preserved in honey. If fresh mushrooms are completely covered with honey, they will keep for about two to three months before slowly losing their active ingredient.

Mushroom regions of Mexico

Mexico is a huge country. The area of the national territory is about five times larger than that of Germany. However, the areas where hallucinogenic mushrooms grow are mainly limited to the states of Chiapas, Oaxaca, Puebla and the State of Mexico, all located in the southern third of the country. The north of the country tends to be too dry and the east, as well as the areas along the Gulf of Mexico, are quite hot and therefore do not offer ideal conditions for mushrooms to grow.

Current use

Today, mushrooms are still very popular. However, they are no longer only consumed in appropriate ceremonies, but also to expand consciousness and to have fun. There are some places in Mexico that have even established themselves as mushroom tourism destinations. One such example is San José el Pacífico, in the state of Oaxaca. In this picturesque mountain town, Mexican mushrooms can be found everywhere. Even the walls of many houses are decorated with murals depicting mushrooms.

Cultivation with mushroom cultivation box

Many of the legendary Mexican mushroom varieties can now also be cultivated at home with special cultivation kits. Cultivation is not complicated and does not require much equipment or space. Another advantage of cultivation is that the mushrooms hardly develop any odor, so cultivation does not pose a great risk. Kits can easily be ordered on the Internet, for example here on our site. All other important information for a successful start can be found on our topic page.

Spring time is outdoor time

March 1 marks the meteorological start of spring in the northern hemisphere. While people in countries like Germany, Austria, Switzerland or the northern United States are still freezing their asses off at this time, people in countries further south like Spain, Italy or Greece are already enjoying the sun and temperatures around 20 degrees Celsius. Whether it's 20 or two degrees, springtime means getting ready for the outdoor grow season. And even if in some places it is still too early to plant your plants or even germinate seeds, you should start preparing yourself and get everything you need for a successful outdoor grow.

Seeds and jiffys

Without seeds there are no plants, so you should think about what kind of seeds you need. In any case, to germinate the seeds properly, you should get yourself Jiffy 7 peat swell pots. They contain all the essential nutrients for the first days of the seedling and are also sterilized, so they do not carry harmful germs that could attack the seed or seedling. They are easy to use, making them suitable for beginners and professionals alike.

Which variety is well suited for outdoor cultivation?

The question of which variety and which type of seed you want to grow depends on various factors, such as the specific location, the region and your personal preference, to name just a few. In regions with long summers, you can grow virtually any strain outdoors. No matter what strain, it will be finished flowering by late fall at the latest. However, this is of little use to outdoor growers in northern regions such as Central or Northern Europe, who need to be able to harvest by the end of September at the latest, before it gets too wet and too cold and the plant may still have immature and underdeveloped buds that are neither resinous nor particularly tasty or potent. Fortunately, there are plenty of outdoor strains that are suitable for any climate.

Autoflowering strains work anytime

Autoflowering, autoflowering or "auto strains" just work anywhere. Whether in northern Germany, southernmost Spain, Scandinavia or the equator. The reason is the reduced life cycle of these varieties. Once germinated, they follow their internal clock and, depending on the variety, are ready for harvesting no later than three months after germination. For outdoor cultivation, this has the unbeatable advantage that these strains also thrive in short summers as well as in long summers, you just have to wait for the right time of sowing. Normally in the northern hemisphere this is in May to June, then the plants have enough time to develop well and are already ready for harvest at the end of July or mid-August. The small disadvantage of autoflowering varieties grown outdoors is that they have a lower yield than light-dependent varieties. They also remain much smaller than their sisters, which again does not have to be a disadvantage. There are a variety of auto strains, there is practically something for everyone. No matter if Indica, Sativa, much or little THC, high yield, low yield, expensive or cheap. You will find 500 autoflowering strains on our site from many different breeders like Sweet Seeds, Sensi Seeds or High Speed Buds. If you feel overwhelmed we recommend our own Auto Strains which are very good and cheap, especially our Auto Do Si Dos or Auto Gorilla Glue have proven themselves, but also classics like Auto White Widow and Auto Afghan Skunk are really good and reliable strains.

Especially fast flowering strains

A relatively recent development in cannabis seed breeding are extra fast flowering strains. They are often labeled "Fast Flowering", "Fast Version" or "Early Harvest" and differ from other strains by their reduced flowering time. However, they are not auto-flowering varieties, but are light-dependent and require a reduction in light hours to begin flowering. They are bred either by deliberate selection of plants of a particular variety that stand out by a short flowering, or recessive autoflowering genes are crossed into the plants, which ensure that they have a stronger flowering impulse and are flowered earlier. For outdoor grows, this means that these strains finish flowering by mid to late September at the latest, making them perfect for getting good outdoor harvests in countries like Germany or even further north. The development of "fast flowering" strains has greatly expanded the spectrum of strains that can be grown outdoors in cooler regions. One of the most popular strains last year was Tropicanna Position F1 Fast Version from Sweet Seeds. But also other manufacturers have now some particularly fast varieties in the offer. World of Seeds with Amnesia Early Harvest or Fast Buds with Purple Lemonade Fast Flowering, to name just two. Fast strains hardly differ from "normal" strains, except that they flower faster and have a stronger flowering impulse. In addition, they usually don't grow quite as tall, reaching around 2 meters at most outdoors. They therefore yield a bit less than their not-so-fast-flowering sisters. However, this won't matter much when growing outdoors.

Outdoor classics

Besides the autoflowering and fast flowering varieties, there are a lot of outdoor classics. These are strains that partly date back to the early 1990s and have been grown millions of times. These strains were developed almost exclusively in the Netherlands, at a time when it was still legal to grow cannabis for seed production there. However, these are not relics from the gray past, but truly proven strains that have been bred to be reliably grown outdoors in cooler climates like the Netherlands, Germany and Denmark. They come from seed banks like Dutch Passion, Sensi Seeds, Serious Seeds or KC Brains. True bedrock of the cannabis scene, but their genetics reliably deliver good yields and quality to this day. Among these classics are strains like Hollands Hope, a wonderful Indica variety that delivers compact resinous flowers at the end of September. Or KC 33, behind whose cryptic name lies a 100% outdoor hybrid yield bomb. Or Early Skunk, a particularly fast flowering Skunk#1 variety. Or Biddy Early, a very early flowering, sativa dominant variety with a balanced high suitable for everyday use. Other varieties of this type are Easy Sativa or Durban, both fast flowering sativas, Early Top Skunk, a cheap Early Skunk variant, Afghan Kush, a 100% indica, as well as Maroc, an indica from the Moroccan Rif mountains or Purple#1, an Afghani cross. All these varieties can be harvested by the end of September at the latest, have been in demand for years and reliably deliver very good results. Both in terms of quality and quantity, these outdoor classics are an excellent choice and thrive splendidly practically anytime and anywhere.

Growing, but where?

In addition to the flowering period of the plants, which must match the region where you want to grow, the specific location is of course enormously important. If you have a large, sunny garden that is out of sight and no one bothers with your cultivation, you have free choice. Any type of seed and variety will work for you. It is similar with a guerrilla grow in the wild. It is different if you want to grow on your terrace or balcony. Here, more discretion may be required. In principle, you can also grow all varieties here. However, you should take into account that outdoor classics grow larger and more sprawling than fast varieties or autoflowering varieties. This means that you have to prune and care for them so that they do not grow too large. It's a similar story with fast varieties. For discrete growing, autoflowering strains are best because they don't grow as tall due to their limited lifespan, which is preferable in a "limited" setting. Whatever you decide, all the presented seeds will perform flawlessly outdoors and will give you a lot of fun and pleasure in every way.

Plant a seed - get your Weed!

Indica vs. Sativa: differences and effects of cannabis

The two cannabis types: Sativa and Indica are used for both medical treatments and recreational use. What are the differences between the two and what are the effects of cannabis in general? Find out everything you need to know.

Finally, we will look at the desirable effects of cannabis, the effects on our bodies and some precautions.

Sativa vs. Indica

In order to understand the differences to keep in mind between these two varieties of cannabis flowers, we will divide this section into five different sections:

The appearance and size

Easily you can recognize a sativa plant by its size, which is far above that of indica. Sativa can reach a length of 6 feet in some cases. The indica variety can reach 90 cm only in very special cases. Another aesthetic difference lies in the tips of these plants. The sativa has long and thin buds. In contrast, Indicas form dense clusters of flowers that are closer to the plant's nodes.

Flowering & yield

Flowering time and production results are quite different between these two cannabis strains. The sativa tends to take more time to flower (estimated between 60 and 90 days). The growth is shorter compared to the indica variety. This one is more productive when estimating the total yield at the end of the cultivation.

The origins of the two varieties

While the sativa tends to grow around the equator and thus in countries such as Colombia, Mexico, Thailand and other African countries, the indica tends to grow at higher altitudes and can be found in Nepal, Turkey, Afghanistan or Morocco (under the name hashish).

The effects of cannabis

If you think they are the same effects, then after this paragraph we leave you to judge. The marijuana seed will always surprise you. As for the therapeutic effects, the indica has better analgesic, sedative or tranquilizing effects, while the sativa is known for its high THC content compared to CBD. For people looking for more of a recreational effect, the feeling is not the same. Sativa stands out for its boosting and stimulating profile. Indica aims more for relaxation and a calming "chill" effect. Sativa is therefore appreciated at parties, in groups or during activities, while indicas are used for consumption in solo mode, among friends and increasingly - get this - among lovers and couples.

The aromas

The smell of sativa is known to be less strong than that of the indica variety, remaining inconspicuous during germination and until drying. As for the taste, Sativa is characterized by a mixture of fruity flavors. With Indica, it's more of a woody flavor, a woody taste that's easy to distinguish even if you consume the best feminized strains you can find on a website where you can order cannabis seeds.

How do you consume them?

You can, after growing the indica seeds or certain "sativa seeds", consume them in different forms:

In the classic way, smoking the flowers that you can find in online seed stores.

Add the substances to your diet (cookies, gummy bears, cakes ...etc.).
Vaporize with a vaporizer.

Vaporizing and smoking quickly leads to an effect compared to the edible way. However, supplements and gourmet goodies are better to avoid unwanted effects of smoking.

Edible products, on the other hand, are not guaranteed to have an effect until a certain point. So it's up to you to choose the right method depending on your situation, patience and environment (party, vacation, festival ...etc.).

Effects and differences

If you are looking for recreational use, the feeling will be different between the two types. Sativa is preferable during the day or if you're planning a fairly dynamic evening. Indica is more appropriate for a quiet, relaxing evening. Indicas contain more CBD compared to sativas. The chemical components remain numerous in both types and require a separate article on this complex topic.

Here are some side effects to watch out for so you can lower the dose and possibly seek medical help if needed:

Low blood pressure
A faster-than-average heartbeat
An increasingly dry mouth
dry eyes
Occurrence of dizziness

These effects are more associated with THC, as opposed to the CBD molecule. Note that regardless of the strain of your cannabis, side effects are possible and it is your responsibility to monitor them.

Practical Tips

The method of consumption

Prefer methods that are away from your lungs to spare your respiratory system. If you suffer from respiratory problems, allergies, or asthma, we recommend consulting your doctor if you have any concerns or discomfort caused by your first doses of cannabis.

The THC dose

If you're a beginner looking for cannabis seeds, you should pay special attention to the THC content to keep it as low as possible. If you look for products with a lower content, you will avoid psychoactive effects and aim for positive effects instead. We strongly recommend that you choose the CBD content over the THC content. If you're just starting your adventure, you should use cookies, gum, or something similar that you enjoy and make you feel safe and in control.

If the subject interests you, don't hesitate to consult your family doctor, who can advise and inform you about the benefits and properties of each type of cannabis: Indica or Sativa?

Runtz Strain: characteristics, genetics and origins

If you have been informed about the latest trends in the cannabis industry, you have probably read one of the many articles that talk about the strain Runtz and the rise it has experienced in the last couple of years.

It is a fresh and hybrid strain whose main attraction is its trichomes. This, together with its particular aroma and its powerful effects when consumed, have turned it into a particular and surprising type of cannabis.

What makes the Runtz Strain such a special strain?

You need to talk to growers and cannabis experts to understand the full extent of what the Runtz Strain has to offer. In fact, you may have even heard of Jason Gellman, founder of Ridgeline Farms who took home an Emerald Cup in 2019 thanks to his quirky Runtz.

Jason Gellman himself, who has devoted half his life to studying the characteristics of cannabis, has assured that the Runtz Strain is a strain like no other that has ever been grown before. He has even gone so far as to define its aroma as a "beautiful blend of syrupy berry cream with fizzy notes". Surprising, to say the least, to appreciate all these nuances even on an expert nose.

In addition, it attracts both its color tonality and its effects. It is pleasing to the eye, as it has a very peculiar color. In fact, purple and pink colors predominate in summer, and in the colder months the bright pink gives way to an intense violet.

As for the effects, the strain Runtz is the queen to combat insomnia. Moreover, it is a hybrid strain that, in this aspect, has much to thank the Indica varieties, with a flavor that could well remind the one known as 'Gelato'.

But let's talk about an aspect of particular importance: the THC. It is not one of the smoothest strains, it is necessary to admit it. In fact, the dose of THC that can reach the bloodstream if you consume this type of marijuana is quite high. However, the key is in the sensations, according to all smokers who have tested the Runtz.

According to them, Runtz cannabis does not knock you down with its THC dose and allows you to maintain a balance between taste and effects, being aware of everything around you. But those who have tried it describe its effects as "a pleasant and delicate sensation, as if the aroma enveloped you in a thick and relaxing scent".

Where does such a strain come from?

Let's talk about the origins of Runtz Strain. Although many try to trace the roots to find the exact lineage of the plant, the combinations are so many that it is difficult to obtain reliable data and the trail is soon lost.

However, it is widely accepted that the strain Runtz marijuana is a combination of Gelato and Zkittlez. Both are a particularly fruity type of marijuana, which shares many characteristics with the Runtz Strain and are considered by many as first cousins.

But there are those who have put the spotlight on other, less fascinating aspects. For example, some say that hybridization is indeed genuine, but that the boost it has received has been the result of a very powerful marketing campaign.

Some companies have even spoken out about how the Runtz strain of cannabis was developed. Cookies has said that the recipe used was that of LB, Ray and Nick, the so-called "Cookies Boyz". And, there is no denying it, marketing is still a fundamental tool capable of catapulting the promoted object or product.

The brand was officially registered in early 2018 and the name "Runtz" was used as a nod to the plant's yield, the size of its buds and the roots of the Zkittlez strain.

Since then, even a few variants of the Runtz strain have been created and one of the best known is the Runtz Strain, which has emerged as one of the most aromatic, fruity and potent marijuana strains of the moment.

Fundamental characteristics of the Runtz Strain marijuana

There are several aspects of the Runtz strain of cannabis that you should know. To begin with, it is a cannabis that grows around its main terpene, caryophyllene, which acts as a kind of chassis on which the rest of the plant will grow. This is where the gaseous limonene and the floral linalool so characteristic of its aroma will take shape.

The caryophyllene stands out for its aroma and, in fact, it is one of the most used elements to train the dogs of the security forces to detect the presence of cannabis. Runtz marijuana contains it in significant quantities, and thanks to it this strain has been able to enjoy an important reception, thanks to its powerful fruity aroma.

Another important characteristic is that the second terpene, limonene, evokes citrus fruits and has strong spicy notes in the mouth. It also has astringent properties.

As for linalool, very present in lavender, this is responsible for giving it a very interesting aroma, almost identical to that of Blueberry, making the nuances of berries that Gellman mentioned before easily noticeable.

With all this in mind, we are talking about one of the most appreciated strains of marijuana for multiple aspects: it is a type of cannabis with a great taste and powerful effects, with a very characteristic evocative aroma, which grows in a resistant and versatile plant able to combine the qualities most appreciated by cannabis fanatics.

Tropicanna Cookies: characteristics, genetics and origins

Tropicanna Cookies is a plant that was originally bred by Oni Seeds, an American seed bank, but unfortunately is no longer available. Therefore, Linda Seeds has developed its own line with a US Tropicanna Cookies Cut, which is in no way inferior to the "original". Tropicanna Cookies comes from a cross between Tangie and Girl Scout Cookies. She is a hybrid plant with a slight sativa dominance, and adapts well to all types of growing environments, as she can be grown both outdoors and indoors. Tropicana Cookies also has the advantage of being able to be grown both hydroponically and in soil, so the possibilities are multiplied.

Effect & taste

There are several aspects that make this plant very attractive to those who like aromatic, terpene-rich varieties with a fresher note. First of all, the characteristic sour taste and the aroma so typical of this variety, with strong citrus notes, are two main features of Tropicanna Cookies. The " Tangie influence " is also noticeable in the mouth and nose, although to a lesser extent. The plant is also rich in creamy nuances, and Girl Scout Cookies has its share in this, giving it a wide range of intense aromas that are noticeable both olfactorily and in taste. For this very reason, Tropicanna Cookies is a good choice for consumers who are looking for a creamy, biscuit-like flavor note with strong citrus notes. As for the effect, you have to be honest and admit that Tropicanna Cookies offers one of the strongest effects you can experience. The euphoria it induces is balanced throughout and provides a long-lasting sense of well-being that will help you leave your everyday life behind and allow you to focus entirely on the here and now. The fact that Tropicanna Cookies contains almost equal parts sativa and indica makes this strain one of the top plants with a pleasant "happy-stoned" effect that is very strong but not completely knock-off.

Indoor & outdoor growing

As described at the outset, Tropicanna Cookies can be grown both indoors and outdoors. It is a very versatile plant that grows very well with little maintenance, so it does not require exceptional care to produce good results. Growers love Tropicanna Cookies because it grows so high yielding and 500g per m2 indoors or 500g per plant outdoors is the bare minimum it achieves. With more care and a little more expert knowledge, 600g or more per m2 can be achieved. When grown in the garden or outdoors, Tropicanna Cookies is ready for harvest in the northern hemisphere around mid-October. For European growers north of the Alps it will be difficult to finish flowering this strain, depending on the region. In a protected environment, however, this should also be possible. With the beginning of the ripening process, the leaves develop a characteristic dark green to purple color, which is particularly strong and representative of the overall condition of the plant. Large branches are formed, which support the formation of buds. Tropicanna Cookies is a plant that is suitable for cultivation by experts in cannabis cultivation, as well as for beginners who have never come into contact with this variety. Usually, it is advisable to use methods such as SOG or SCROG, which in most cases provide the best results. A key feature of Tropicanna Cookies is that it can then easily produce up to 600 grams of buds. This amount of buds is one reason why its fruity aroma is so striking. The grow tent is simply packed with fat buds!

Indoor: Tropicanna Cookies

What can succeed outdoors if you live in the right region, will always succeed indoors with Tropicanna Cookies! Grown indoors or in a grow tent, this strain grows vigorously and has an above average stretch. You should therefore start her flowering at already 20 cm, so that the plants are 80-100 cm tall by the end. This recommendation is for a 600-1000W HPS or equivalent 400-600W LED lamps per m2. You will get a harvest of 1g per watt in any case, depending on skill and equipment even much more. Another important point is that when grown indoors, the plant will develop many lateral branches that should be removed, depending on the setting and growing technique, or alternatively, fewer plants per m2 can be placed. Tropicanna Cookies is mature after a good 8 weeks, to get a more intense terpene production and to let the tropical-zirus-heavy notes mature, the strain can also be left for a few days longer - according to your own taste. By the end of the flowering period, Tropicanna Cookies has developed beautiful, often purple, extremely resinous buds that have a "popcorn" structure on some plants.

Terpene structure & aroma

The intense terpenes that give Tropicanna Cookies a strong citrus note also carry over to the flavor when vaporized or smoked. Almost all the characteristics of the complex aroma are preserved, characterizing the strong and fruity nature of this weed. Through complex and exceptionally strong citrus undertones with a subtle sour note from the Tangie and the slightly creamy sweet impact of the Cookies, Tropicana Cookies is often considered a very "orange" strain, going back to classics like Orange Bud. Through the parent "Tangie, are certainly still traces of this classic contained, but nothing more. Tropicanna Cookies forms a new, more complex and delicious flavor profile by crossing its parent plants. This in combination with colorful, resinous "popcorn buds", making Tropicanna Cookies an exceptional and in every way special plant that no grower should miss in his grow tent!

Psilocybin mushroom

Hallucinogenic mushrooms are mushrooms that have chemical components in their composition that are capable of causing narcotic effects in the body. One of the best known side effects of hallucinogenic mushrooms is their ability to alter reality. These effects, their intensity and duration depend on the concentration and the amount administered and can therefore vary.

In this article, we will try to shed some more light on the different types of hallucinogenic mushrooms. You will learn what hallucinogenic mushrooms are, what effects they have on the body, how to obtain hallucinogenic mushrooms, how to dry and store them, and what precautions you should take when handling them.

Types of magic mushrooms

It is likely that nature has produced other hallucinogenic mushrooms than the ones we will present here. However, our selection is of those varieties that are most commonly used. Each of these mushrooms has its characteristic peculiarities that you should know. Below, we will talk about the distinguishing features of 13 of them and how you can tell them apart:

Panama mushrooms

They are characterized by their fleshy stems and their broad, light brown caps, which are typical of South American mushrooms. They grow quickly and their narcotic effects are very strong, so caution is advised if you don't know how to safely ingest hallucinogenic mushrooms, are doing it for the first time, or don't know the exact source of the mushrooms.

Red Boy Mushrooms

They are very recognizable by their large bell-shaped caps. The Red Boy mushroom allows for easy collection of spores while being easy to clone. The "Red Boy" has very large fruiting bodies and impresses with its above-average potency.

Orissa India Mushrooms

They are extremely popular among connoisseurs, but their origin could hardly be more "curious", because they are often found on the feces of cows and elephants and are characterized by a very long stalk and a very wide cap, reaching the size of a man's hand.

They grow at an increasing rate, forming a large fungal family around the feces in the early stages of the reproductive cycle, and their ability to grow and reproduce gradually decreases. Artificially grown, however, the hats do not grow quite as large as they do in the wild.

Brasilia mushrooms

These mushrooms have a pleasant caramel flavor. They grow out with narrow caps, gradually developing their very characteristic and appetizing texture. Its stem length is noticeably longer than most comparable mushrooms from other South American countries. The mushroom grows very large and is easily recognized by the dense veil of its crown, which comes off as soon as the fruits are ripe.

B+ magic mushrooms

B+ magic mushrooms are among the greatest hallucinogenic mushrooms of all. The mushrooms originated from the Pacific coast of the United States and are known worldwide for their size, as well as their ease of cultivation.

These mushrooms leave their spores in the garden substrate, which germinate in the same field every year. B+ magic mushrooms are among the hallucinogenic mushrooms with the greatest reproductive capacity and are ideal for those seeking numerous, fast-growing specimens.

Penis Envy Mushrooms

Yes, their name sounds disreputable however the naming has a good reason: the stem of Penis Envy develops a very characteristic phallic shape, so the naming was based on the natural features.

The sub-variety known as Supa Envy is a further improved version with a much higher potency, a thicker stem and an appearance less reminiscent of the phalluses that Penys Envy follow in their shaping.

Mushrooms from Ecuador

Originating from the Ecuadorian highlands, these mushrooms are endowed with a high reproduction rate. The locals often take them to cleanse the spirit by boiling them to create broths that (as they say) purify the soul, or cut them into small pieces to eat that way.

However, if you do not know how to safely ingest these magic mushrooms, you should not even consider consuming them, certainly not in large quantities: Their narcotic effects are very strong, which is why they can only be recommended for experts in the field who know how to properly dry hallucinogenic mushrooms and how to reduce their strong side effects.

Mexican mushrooms

The Mexican variety is especially popular among beginners. the mushroom originates from Michoacán, the cradle of psychedelic mushrooms and is also known as the "mushroom of laughter". This mushroom ("Psilocybe Cubensis Mexicana") is delicate with thin stems and presents with a sandy color.

The side effects of hallucinogenic mushrooms of the Mexican variety are very mild in small doses, which is why they are so popular with the inexperienced. However, in higher doses, their psychotropic effects can also be very strong. For novices in the field of magic mushroom cultivation, this is probably the most famous variety, as they grow quickly and easily.

Golden Teacher Mushrooms

These, along with Mexican mushrooms, are the most popular among the inexperienced crowd. They are often used in shamanic rituals and are very recognizable by their yellow crown. Although they are commonly consumed worldwide, their consumption should also be done with caution. Again, it's the quantity that makes the difference.

The side effects of hallucinogenic mushrooms of the Golden Teacher variety can be unpredictable in large quantities, so extreme caution is advised, especially if you do not know how to safely ingest hallucinogenic mushrooms.

Amazon Mushrooms

Since growing hallucinogenic mushrooms is not always easy, many consumers buy Amazon mushrooms because of their size, in the superstition that the bigger they are, the better their reproductive capacity would be.

Although their flush is very potent, it is not the variety with the highest reproduction rate, as a number of very specific conditions must be met for it to develop and mature.

Koh Samui Thai Mushrooms

Until a few years ago, it was common to hear stories of tourists visiting Thailand and looking for places to buy the country's typical hallucinogenic mushrooms. The mushrooms they bought were used to make milkshakes, which the travelers consumed and which, they said, sent them into "miraculous" moments.

Some say they are the most mysterious of all hallucinogenic mushrooms because those who consumed them say it gave them a sense of inner peace they had never experienced before, a kind of miraculous astral travel they longed to repeat.

Cambodian Mushrooms

This is an ideal mushroom species for beginners, as it does not require any knowledge of cultivation, nor do you need to know how to dry the hallucinogenic mushrooms of this species, which makes it an ideal species for those who have no experience in growing and caring for mushroom fields.

It has a cap typical of Asian mushrooms, only it is slightly thinner. It was brought to the West for research and is now one of the most popular specimens.

PK 13/14: A blessing and a curse at the same time!

If you want to grow cannabis, today you will find a variety of specialized fertilizers that are adapted to marijuana plants. In addition to these basic fertilizers, which contain the key ingredients for healthy plant growth and abundant flowering, there are plenty more products designed to enhance and promote the growth of cannabis plants. Starting with root stimulators, which promise a faster rooting of young plants into the medium, vitamins and hormones, there are flower stimulators that have a positive influence on the development of flowering. There are now many of these products in different composition and concentration. The classic among them is PK 13/14 (phosphorus / potassium), known for many years and used by many cannabis breeders. %%weiterlesen%%PK 13/14 has an undeniable effect and, if used correctly, can provide significant increases in yield. This is the blessing given by PK 13/14! On the other hand, PK13 / 14 can do exactly the opposite. Excessive addition of PK 13/14 inhibits flowering and prevents further plant growth. It is particularly tricky that different cannabis strains react very differently to the addition of PK 13/14. While some varieties graciously put away a possible overdose of the additive, it comes with other varieties first halted flowering. Unfortunately, this lost time can no longer be made up, as the flowering cycle does not lengthen when it stops, but the plant simply has fewer flowers at the end. %%umbruch%%This can be a loss of 20%, without really knowing why it was, because the plants actually look lush green, have great flowers and have no burns of over-fertilization. Another phenomenon of excessive PK 13/14 addition is gray mold in the flowers. Giving PK 13/14 over too long a period of time (even if it is relatively low) increases the likelihood of mold forming in the flowers at the end of the flowering phase, given otherwise good climatic conditions in the room. Use PK 13/14 with great caution. Do not take more than 1/3 of the manufacturer's recommended dose and do not give it more than five to a maximum of seven days. On hydro or coconut cultures, keep the EC value of the effluent in the eye, if possible. If he starts to overly increase, end the addition of PK 13/14. While giving PK 13/14, it is best to reduce the amount of fertilizer so that the EC value stays at the same level. Also important is the time of addition of PK 13/14. Pay attention to the development of your plants. The flowers should already be strong and have covered the shoot tips, but not yet be too compact. This stage is usually reached after the fourth to fifth week of flowering. If you begin a modest addition of PK 13/14 at this stage, this addition can work wonders!

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